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Question about a stripped tread repair

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Old Apr 22, 2012 | 11:33 AM
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Default Question about a stripped tread repair

Yesterday I put on a new side motor mount on my Acura CL-Type S while taking the bolt off one of the tread got stripped. After installed new motor mount on and putting the bolts back in one of it was free spinning therefore I need to have it repair. The bolt are M10 x1.25 should I tap it then use a M10 x1.50 since the 1.25 is loose now?
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Old Apr 22, 2012 | 12:05 PM
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If you've stripped M10X1.25 then tapping to M10x1.5 is probably not going to last either. I'd probably tap it out to 10x1.5 and loctite a bolt in screwing up from the underside (if it'll fit that way), then put a nylock nut on the top. Alternatively, put the bolt down from the top and a lock nut on the underside. Or drill complete assembly and tap to m12.
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Old Apr 22, 2012 | 12:11 PM
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Not sure if there a enough clearance to put a lock nut on the bottom. Also as I was unbolting I notice there a piece of the thread insert broken off wouldn't I need to drill it then put in a new thread insert? Tapping to a 10X1.5 is okay with out new thread insert?
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Old Apr 22, 2012 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Vinny_GPW-S2K
Not sure if there a enough clearance to put a lock nut on the bottom. Also as I was unbolting I notice there a piece of the thread insert broken off wouldn't I need to drill it then put in a new thread insert? Tapping to a 10X1.5 is okay with out new thread insert?
If some of the stud is broken, yes you'll need to drill it out. This can be tricky, I usually use a centre punch and start with a small drill, getting bigger until the hole starts to break the minor dia of the bolt thread. Then you can usually tap it around with a punch and hammer. All this is assuming you don't have stud extractor. As for inserts/helicoils you could use one if you like, I find they are ok for a one time application but no good for something that is to be fitted and removed regularly, they tend to fall out! If I was doing it and wanted to put it back as good as stock, I'd drill it out to M16 Loctite in some M16 studding then drill and tap that to the original M12x1.25.
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Old Apr 22, 2012 | 12:52 PM
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I got lost at the last sentence with the drill out of the M16 loctite, M116 studding then drill and tap to M12x1.25?
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Old Apr 22, 2012 | 01:02 PM
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I guess these are the same procedure you were talking about?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=46bIm...eature=related
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Old Apr 22, 2012 | 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Vinny_GPW-S2K
I got lost at the last sentence with the drill out of the M16 loctite, M116 studding then drill and tap to M12x1.25?
I would drill and tap to M16, then loctite in some M16 studding(threaded bar), then drill and tap that to M12x1.25, but it would be much easier to do M12 and put a nut on the bottom.
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Old Apr 22, 2012 | 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Vinny_GPW-S2K
I guess these are the same procedure you were talking about?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=46bIm...eature=related
Yeah that's the things. I'm not a fan, but that's just my opinion.

You can get solid inserts rather than these coil type, they are much better, but I couldn't find a link anywhere.

Good luck.
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Old Apr 22, 2012 | 02:04 PM
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http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...&blockType=G11
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Old Apr 22, 2012 | 02:44 PM
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ive had no issues with a heli-coil ever and I have used them on what other people have screwed up

once step above, that I have even used in the cylinder block, is a timesert it will be overkill for your app but it will give you more piece of mind.
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