I hope to draw on the experience of some of you out there.

I have seemed to developed an oil leak that appears to be coming from the upper part of the Lower Block (term used in Service manual). This is defined as the part of the block that the oil pan is attached to just below the crank shaft. I see no reason why this would need to be pulled off for any aftermarket work. With that said the liquid gasket that was used is "gupping out" around the upper portion of the this lower block. I find it hard to believe that Honda would do sloppy work like that. When I had the s/c put on they did the typical tapping of the oil pan and I had them change the oil jet bolts at the same time. Does this require the removal of the Lower Block?

The leak is coming from the right side and trailing down to the oil drain bolt. Questions are this:

1) Are these seals that would fail do to increase stress of s/c?
2) Would repair entail pulling both oil pan and lower block and resealing and retorquing bolts?
3) Are the bolts for the lower block located inside the the oil pan, meaning they are only visible after removing the oil pan?
4) What are the torque specs for the lower block and oil pan bolts?
5) Is this a DIY or should I call on the experience of dealership?

Thanks in advance for any and all advice.

Deiger

 

A picture would do wonders.

The shop that replaced the oil jet bolts may have removed that section of the block to access the oil jet bolts. Normally this can be done by just removing the oil pan. It removal is not required.

The OEM sealer is gray in color and there is always some slop that get out. The tolerances are very tight and a little goes a long way.

Youq questions
1. No, there are no seals in that area you are having a problem with.
2. No, not required.
3. Yes. You have to pull the oil pan to see them.
4. You will need a Helms manual for the specs. There is more than one.
5. Dealer or a well known shop with S2000 experiance. This is no small task. You are basicly removing the main bearing caps of the crankshaft. Care must be taken when it goes back together.

Are you sure this is where the oil leak is from? There is a ton a mating surface and I find it unlikely that you have a leak coming from there. You would be the first to haev such a problem that has posted in the last six year, it has got to be something else.

 

First of all, it's "I seem to have developed an oil leak".




[QUOTE=DEIGER,Aug 11 2007, 06:22 PM]appears to be coming from the upper part of the Lower Block (term used in Service manual).

 

Go easy on him. He is referring to the girdle.

I would look for a source above that just to rule it out since this is not a common problem.

 

As defined in the Honda Helms Manual the block consists of 4 main pieces Valve cover, main block, lower block, and oil pan. Give or take.

A friend and I did an exhaustive search of the undercarriage and as much of the block that I could see from above to determine leakage. We then cleaned the whole area and then did a test drive to determine a leak. At idle and sitting still no problem, however after some driving and a return to jack stands it appear that the leak was coming from the upper seal of the Lower Block and then seaping down the corner or the engine to the oil pan. I will get some pictures to further define my point.

Other areas I check for leaks oil filter assembly, tap for the return line for s/c, input for oil feed line and oil pressure gauge (one in the same), also feedline into the blower assembly. I also check the connection to the bell housing to the transmission no problems there. Oil pan also has a new plug and crush washer from last oil change.

As a side note, the shop that did the s/c instal 2 years ago did some very questionable work. I have been spending the last 6 months repair faults of their labors. This is why I inquired about the removal of the lower block to replace the oil jet bolts and they did a bad job of putting it back.

Deiger

 

First pictures are to confirm that I am using the right words to describe the engine block.







The residual oil is more noticiable on the seal of the oil pan and lower block. Also notice the oil plug. However, after the test drive I noticed oil first from the seal between the lower block and main block and then a "river of sorts" runnning down to the oil pan and then to the oil plug.













Deiger

 

That is a major pita to fix. I suggest just watching your oil level and washing it off when it starts to drip.

 

It does look to me that they did remove the girdle. The sealer looks to be tattered.

But the oil pans seems to be the source of a leak, at least from the pictures.

To fix this right, you are going to have to remove the motor from the car. Install it on a stand and take it apart. From what I understand, sealing that area (girdle) effects the main bearing clearances so don't go over board with the sealer.

 

That is initially what I though, however upon initial idle and a little driving it started to seap out of the upper seal of the girdle. Being the cautious person I am, I was considering removing both parts, cleaning, resealing, and reinstall both parts. I did notice that removal of the girdle requires the removal of the the two engine mounts. I assume the engine is supported by more than these two mounts, there by not requiring an engine hoist. Either way I believe I am going to call on a professional to undertake this.

Sideways, believe me that was a consideration. The oil level does seem to be affected for the min. 3 months or 3,000 miles. But it would bother me that it was leaking. Also curious if there is something else wrong I am not seeing.

If anyone can recommend a good, professional mechanic within 50 miles of Charlotte, please do so. Quality vs. convience is what I am looking for.

Deiger

 

I'd clean everything off 1st, with non-cholinated brake cleaner. Make sure the entire surface is oil free. Then get some spray on foot powder and spray every seam from the girdle and timing chain case. Start up the engine and look for where to oil starts to show 1st on the powder.

I'd be more suspicious of the oil feed hose for the SC, the VTEC solenoid bolts being loose or broken or the timing chain case seal being the cause than the girdle.