My 00 with 60k miles on it started to make a sound from the right rear tire like scrapping, hissing more like scratching sound, like i need new pads ,but i checked the brake pads, but they are in good shape any recomendation about it...thanks

 

Wheel bearings?

 

Axle nut. Almost guaranteed.

-Unstake nut.

-Remove nut.

-WD-40 on threads, wheel bearing grease on face of nut.

-re-install, torque to 220 Ft-Lbs.

-Re-stake nut.

This can all be done (and should) with the E-brake on, car on the ground. Just remove the centercap.

 

Seems to be getting around...

As the above post.. tighten the axle nut..

 

i'll try it as soon as possible..thanks ..

 

well i tought i understood your explanition..but i was wrong...i'm a little hasty for this could you explain me where is the axle nut lol..sorry and do i need any special tool...thanks

 

The axle nut is located in the very center of the wheel. If you remove the center cap, you can't miss it. To start with, you'll need a 1/2" drive 36mm socket and a breaker bar.

The car should be on the ground, in gear with the parking brake FULLY set. If the car is not on the ground, you'll probably wind up spinning the motor before the nut will loosen or tighten. First, you have to unstake the nut. It might not be a bad idea to spray the nut with liquid wrench and let sit for 5 minutes. It will take a lot of strength using a 1/2" drive breaker bar to break the sucker. I guess you could use a 3/4" drive socket and breaker bar

When I do this to my car, (mine has only clicked a few times since I have owned it) I will be separating the lower ball joint from the control arm, pull the hub carrier (or knuckle, which ever term you prefer to use) away from the axle, apply some Moly grease onto the splines of the axle and then insert the axle back into the hub carrier.

Then, I will be replacing the axle nut with a new nut, put a small amount of Moly grease onto the surface of the nut that comes into contact with the hub, tighten it and then stake it. Being that my axle nut's do not click, I will probably torque them to just a little bit over the OEM specification, but less than the revised specification.

You need a special Honda tool to separate the ball joint from the control arm.

 

Tie rod splitter, used for lower ball joint. works faster, and better than the Honda tool:

 

Why less than 220?

 

does this apply for all years?