S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Rear sub frame removal

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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 11:35 AM
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Default Rear sub frame removal

I broke control arms on the rear and also dented the brackets that hold the top control arm. I cannot bolt up the new set of control arms because the brackets are bent too far. I am going to attempt to remove the rear sub frame. Save removing the exhaust. I was hoping that aside from detaching brake lines and what not that i could just detach the diff from the drive shaft and drop it out as a whole unit. Is this possible? any fuel components that i need to remove or anything like that? Any help would be greatly appreciated as I already have another rear sub frame
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by blackout,Feb 12 2007, 12:35 PM
Save removing the exhaust.
if your dropping the rear subframe, the exhaust will need to come off.


Brake lines and e-brake lines, fuel evap lines ect, driveline, it should lower down.

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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 03:09 PM
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the fuel evap lines are connected to that black canister with the honey comb pattern on it yes? so disconnect that crap, drop the exhaust, remove the springs/shocks and disconnect the driveshaft and then disconnect the subframe bolts and boom it should pop off?
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by blackout,Feb 12 2007, 04:09 PM
the fuel evap lines are connected to that black canister with the honey comb pattern on it yes? so disconnect that crap, drop the exhaust, remove the springs/shocks and disconnect the driveshaft and then disconnect the subframe bolts and boom it should pop off?
Be sure all the lines and cables are out of the way when you drop it down.
It should drop down.
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 05:15 PM
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sweet thanks for the advice. just making sure there isnt something hiding above the subframe by the spare tire well or fuel tank or something
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by hecash,Feb 12 2007, 09:05 PM

The manual recommends not reusing the subframe bolts. They are designed to stretch when torque-d under the first install or something like that. They are not cheap, either. I think that the two long ones on each side (4 total) cost me like $14 each or so.
You dont have to buy new bolts, put motor oil on the threads when you torque them and be sure they are clean, you will be fine. They are not torque to yield bolts.
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Old Feb 12, 2007 | 10:20 PM
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wow guys i really appreciate all this help. This is a first for me. Up till now the most I have done are brake jobs and oil changes. Taking on quite a challenge here with no air tools working on a gravel driveway in this lovely jersey winter. Thanks for all the insight it is helping alot.
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 07:54 AM
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It's not too hard to do. Took me 5 hours +/-. Just make sure you have all the tools and you have the thing properly jacked up when you drop it.
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 07:55 AM
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I forgot, what year is your new subframe?
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Old Feb 13, 2007 | 09:26 AM
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hmm not sure to be honest. Does it make a difference if I have the springs and control arms to go with it? I would be using an Ap1 diff. that will fit in the Ap2 subframe right? Also what about putting the hoses back on the evap canister? or is it pretty straight forward?
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