Rear sub frame removal
I broke control arms on the rear and also dented the brackets that hold the top control arm. I cannot bolt up the new set of control arms because the brackets are bent too far. I am going to attempt to remove the rear sub frame. Save removing the exhaust. I was hoping that aside from detaching brake lines and what not that i could just detach the diff from the drive shaft and drop it out as a whole unit. Is this possible? any fuel components that i need to remove or anything like that? Any help would be greatly appreciated as I already have another rear sub frame
Originally Posted by blackout,Feb 12 2007, 12:35 PM
Save removing the exhaust.
Brake lines and e-brake lines, fuel evap lines ect, driveline, it should lower down.
the fuel evap lines are connected to that black canister with the honey comb pattern on it yes? so disconnect that crap, drop the exhaust, remove the springs/shocks and disconnect the driveshaft and then disconnect the subframe bolts and boom it should pop off?
Originally Posted by blackout,Feb 12 2007, 04:09 PM
the fuel evap lines are connected to that black canister with the honey comb pattern on it yes? so disconnect that crap, drop the exhaust, remove the springs/shocks and disconnect the driveshaft and then disconnect the subframe bolts and boom it should pop off?
It should drop down.
Originally Posted by hecash,Feb 12 2007, 09:05 PM
The manual recommends not reusing the subframe bolts. They are designed to stretch when torque-d under the first install or something like that. They are not cheap, either. I think that the two long ones on each side (4 total) cost me like $14 each or so.
wow guys i really appreciate all this help. This is a first for me. Up till now the most I have done are brake jobs and oil changes. Taking on quite a challenge here with no air tools working on a gravel driveway in this lovely jersey winter. Thanks for all the insight it is helping alot.
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hmm not sure to be honest. Does it make a difference if I have the springs and control arms to go with it? I would be using an Ap1 diff. that will fit in the Ap2 subframe right? Also what about putting the hoses back on the evap canister? or is it pretty straight forward?


