I have 3 options

1. Put stock diff back on. My uncle is a mechanic and he says the reason my diff was locked because my wheel bearing is bad. I have another diff with a good wheel bearing but bad "teeth" as he calls them. He is an old school mechanic he doesnt belive in replacing parts he belives in rebuilding.

2.Put diff back to stock as I said above. Order 4:77 final drive and Comptech rear housing. This will set me back about 1k.

3. Buy a complete AP2 rear diff and have the 4:44 and ap2 final drive.

What would you do? Money is kind of tight now mortgages have sucked. This could be my early X-mass gift though. I wonder if with the 4:77 ill lose some top end.

 

Wheel bearings have no teeth.

The wheel bearing would have to be just about locked up, and making very bad howling noises to cause damage to the diff.

Chances are the diff failed 1st, and you have a faulty wheel bearing as well.

 

The wheel bearing is in the hub (out by the wheel). It's nothing to do with the diff.

Are you getting a little confused? So far, you've got 4.77s, 4.44s and the stock (AP2) final drive gears (4.10s) floating around.

You'll lose about 8 mph off the top end, since the stock car can only go about 150 mph on level ground at sea level, with no wind, top up, standard temperature and pressure.

 

I know the wheel baring have no teeth...

One diff has bad teeth

One has a bad wheel bearing...

We take the wheel baring from the one with bad teeth and put it on the diff with the bad wheel baring.

He will open it up to inspect it though so he'll know if the wheel baring is bad and caused the teeth to go bad too or vice versa.

 

AP2 diff come with the 4:44 final drive. If I buy that one all my issues would be solved.

Or I can mis and match my 2 current diffs I have. One has bad bearing the other has bad teeth but good bearing.

If I want to take it another step rebuild it to have a 4:77 final drive and comptech housing.

I've hit 150 top up with plenty to guy.

 

A rear diff has no "wheel bearing". I think you must mean the output shaft tapered roller bearing.

Are you saying that the diff you found has 4.44s installed in them because the stock diff has 4.10s in them.

New bearings don't cost that much. Why not just put new ones into the one that has the good ring and pinion?

I'm sure that's what your speedo said, but that doesn't mean it was a true speed. Please read my previous statement on this very carefully. With a slight downhill run and the wind at your back, you can go way beyond 150, but 150 is about par given "standard" conditions and not being fooled by speedometer error.

 

Both Stock AP1 and AP2 differentials have the same final drive gear, a 4.10

No S2000 came with a 4.44, unless the gear was swapped in.

The wheel bearing is not attached to the differential. There are multiple bearings inside the differential housing which may be damaged.

 

yeah he meant diff baring

 

I do have 18 inch volks your right my speedo is off

 

Sorry if I'm nit picking but I think all this info will help you better understand stuff in future.

It's not the size of your wheels that cause the speedo error. It's having the wrong size of tire that does it. If you got the appropriate tire size to keep the overall diameter the same, you will have no diff speedo error than before. Our speedos have about a 1% to 2% error but this gets much worse as the speed increases.