I'm a bit lost and upset at this point, so please bare with me. I'm not the most technical guy in the world, but i'm learning.

I bought a 2006 AP2 with 151k miles on it a few days ago, test drove it and everything seemed fine, minus the starter. I drove it back home over 2 hours, and about halfway there I noticed a drop in power, but no check engine lights.

The next day, I installed a rebuilt OEM starter, and the car started fine, but it was idling rough and felt like a vibration. (When the car is dead cold, it start perfectly, no hesitation) and then a check engine light came on : "P2649 HONDA - Rocker Arm Oil Control Solenoid Circuit High Voltage https://www.autocodes.com/p2649_honda.html . Seemed to me like something with the VTEC solenoid leaking, and I confirmed it by noticing oil, so I've got a new gasket to put on it, which im going to do tonight and see if that helps. Sometimes when I start the car, I notice that the check engine light comes on as well as the VSA and exclamation point light, and they stay on until it's restarted as well. I've also noticed the oil light will come on, flash (somewhat dimly) and go back off occasionaly too.

We decided to do a compression and leakdown test and found that compression on cylinders 3 and 4 were extremely low (130's) and blowby was coming out of the oil cap and oil dipstick, I was told it's most likely rings causing all of the issues.

So I'm lost at this point: I found this rebuild kit but i don't know anything about it, but it's within my price range. I knew there was going to be some problems to be fixed, but I didn't expect it to be this bad, and it really sucks because it's my only daily. https://www.enginepartsonly.com/2006...d-kit-ek210-7/

Any advice regarding all of these symptoms would be extremely helpful.

 

return it lol

 

 

You maybe better off looking for another good, used engine. These are not the easiest engines to rebuild correctly.

Sorry.

 

Try to return it. I'd say it is very unlikely that the seller was not aware. I agree that if the only option is a bottom end rebuild the better option is used engine.

 

The problem with rebuilding these engines is once its to the point of needing a rebuild, its past the point of being rebuildable. Its the cylinders with their frm coating that make blocks a lost cause.

Not only that, but to achieve their remarkable performance, these engines used hand selected components. There were two different piston sizes, and several different bearing sizes. Part tolerances vary, so they used parts with different sizes to more closely match that particular motors crank and block tolerances.

So an off the shelf rebuild kit would never work. You would need to order the correct pistoms and bearing sizes for your particular block and crank.

 

How are you so sure it's the rings, with that mileage it's just as possible that burned valves, and shot valve guides are the cause, particularly since it's a DBW AP2. It could also explain the oil consumption, I mean it could be rings, I'd still check the valve leakage just to be sure.

 

Don't try to rebuild it, I wasted a lot of time and money on my previous S2K trying to rebuild it. I wish I would have spent the extra $1,000 and bought a used motor. Instead, I sold the car with a blown motor and cut my losses.

 

You are not too far from me. I have a fresh F22c for sale in Calhoun, GA