Removing AIR pump???
REDMX5,
Looked into this further.
The main relay for the air pump is controlled by a plug with a blue and black wire.
The feedback back to the ECU is a single green wire to the small black box with a 7.5amp fuse.
I havent been able to test this fully as my car doesnt have a radiator yet, but this should work to stop a CEL
1. connect a 1K resistor over the black/blue wires used to go to the high power relay.
2. connect the green wire to the blue wire via a small fuse ( 1 amp).
This will provide the voltage that the ECU expects to see when the air pump is operating.
3. The other thing to do is to disconnect the vacuum line going to the air pump diaphragm on the back of the engine . ( next to #4 cylinder). Plug the end of the rubber hose. If you dont do this step this valve will still open and the exhaust gas will flow back to where the air pump used to be.
Speedracer.
Looked into this further.
The main relay for the air pump is controlled by a plug with a blue and black wire.
The feedback back to the ECU is a single green wire to the small black box with a 7.5amp fuse.
I havent been able to test this fully as my car doesnt have a radiator yet, but this should work to stop a CEL
1. connect a 1K resistor over the black/blue wires used to go to the high power relay.
2. connect the green wire to the blue wire via a small fuse ( 1 amp).
This will provide the voltage that the ECU expects to see when the air pump is operating.
3. The other thing to do is to disconnect the vacuum line going to the air pump diaphragm on the back of the engine . ( next to #4 cylinder). Plug the end of the rubber hose. If you dont do this step this valve will still open and the exhaust gas will flow back to where the air pump used to be.
Speedracer.
Originally posted by chris_barry
REDMX5,
Looked into this further.
The main relay for the air pump is controlled by a plug with a blue and black wire.
The feedback back to the ECU is a single green wire to the small black box with a 7.5amp fuse.
I havent been able to test this fully as my car doesnt have a radiator yet, but this should work to stop a CEL
1. connect a 1K resistor over the black/blue wires used to go to the high power relay.
2. connect the green wire to the blue wire via a small fuse ( 1 amp).
This will provide the voltage that the ECU expects to see when the air pump is operating.
3. The other thing to do is to disconnect the vacuum line going to the air pump diaphragm on the back of the engine . ( next to #4 cylinder). Plug the end of the rubber hose. If you dont do this step this valve will still open and the exhaust gas will flow back to where the air pump used to be.
Speedracer.
REDMX5,
Looked into this further.
The main relay for the air pump is controlled by a plug with a blue and black wire.
The feedback back to the ECU is a single green wire to the small black box with a 7.5amp fuse.
I havent been able to test this fully as my car doesnt have a radiator yet, but this should work to stop a CEL
1. connect a 1K resistor over the black/blue wires used to go to the high power relay.
2. connect the green wire to the blue wire via a small fuse ( 1 amp).
This will provide the voltage that the ECU expects to see when the air pump is operating.
3. The other thing to do is to disconnect the vacuum line going to the air pump diaphragm on the back of the engine . ( next to #4 cylinder). Plug the end of the rubber hose. If you dont do this step this valve will still open and the exhaust gas will flow back to where the air pump used to be.
Speedracer.
I assume that the "small black box" you're talking about is the "AIR pump current sensor."
According to the Helm manual this box just sends a 5-volt logic signal to the ECU, but I'm not sure whether it's positive-logic or negative-logic. I was also left wondering if the ECU might check for both the on and off condition of the pump; if it does, just feeding the ECU a dummy 5-volt signal won't work. How did you determine that the 1k-ohm resistor would give you the proper voltage (I haven't seen any info on the input impedance of the ECU)?Let us know when you find out if this actually works; apparently I'm not the only one interested in removing the pump. I'll try it myself if I can find the time; would have done it yesterday rather than polishing the VTEC valve
but I didn't have a clue what resistance I'd need to drop the 5-volts.You do good work Chris. Thanks.
Take care,
RED
Originally posted by red02s2k
ok i may sound stupid but it never hurts to ask what is the piont of taking it off does it give more power or what
ok i may sound stupid but it never hurts to ask what is the piont of taking it off does it give more power or what
If you're not racing and your pump is working properly you should probably just keep it on the car. It does keep the pollutants down briefly after a cold start.
RED
Originally posted by RED MX5
(except for saving a couple pounds)
(except for saving a couple pounds)
And this particular way (air pump) seems to be one of the "less simple".




