Is it really nessasary to remove the lower ball joint when changing out the rear diff? I was planning to secure the half shafts to the chassis with some wire or something once disconnected from the diff so that they don't hang down unsupported, or is this a bad idea? Or does the ball joint come off so easily that its not worth skipping? Only reason I ask is I don't have a ball joint remover. I can obviously buy one of needed, but after lookig through the service manual, It doesnt seem nessasary for replacing the Diff.

 

The axles have a post sticking out of them into the dif.

You need to pop the ball joint for clearance...unless you disassemble the entire knuckle.

Way faster to spens 45 seconds and pop the ball joints.

 

Separating the lower ball joint gives you room to get the axles out of the diff flanges.

 

Ahh, Ok. Yeah, I see that in the diagrams in the service manual now that you point it out. Thanks for the quick replys guys! I'll get a ball joint remover then.

 

A tie rod puller works great, and fast. Like this one on the left...

 

Here's a very good tip:

Unbolt the ABS sensor and pull it out of the knuckle (single 10mm bolt head) before you pull the knuckle outwards.

If you don't you will instanty break the wiring internally. It's been done by almost everyone who does not do it.

 

Gotcha, I'll be extra carefull when removing the ABS sensor then. Also I already have a tie rod puller, so thats good, I'll use that then. I thought that might have done the job, but I always try and use the exact correct tool when I can. Plus I figured I'd need a balljoint remover again sometime down the road. Thanks for the tips bro!

 

Just in case anyone has Driveshaft shop axles- there is no centering pin but you have to remove the drivers side half shaft to remove/replace the diff.

 

Billman250 Posted on Jun 7 2007, 03:10 AM
No offence.. that is clearly described in the Honda service manual.


IOW: get a service manual and read it before doing any kind of "big" job on your S2000


A "tip" that is not in the service manual: leave the castle nut on the end of the thread of the bal joint so the thread doesn't get cruched by the ball joint popper, especially on older cars with rusted suspension stuff when it takes a lot of force before the ball joints go POP!
Tap it with a hammer when under tension to make it go POP may help too.
Do not put grease on the tapered part when installing, it makes it harder to get the tapered parts to grip.
Be carefull NOT to damage the boot with the ball joint remover (Honda tip )

 

I saw the part in the service mount about removing the two bolts for the sensor wire holder, but I thought he was referring to where the wire connects to the actual sensor itself. I always flip through the service manual for whatever job I'm about to do a couple times over before starting. Just so I have a good overview in my head of the entire process. The service manual is invaluable!