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My questions is that, Ebay sells the parts FCC OEM Honda clutch kit, including OEM disk, OEM PP, OEM bearing for $469 which is a lot cheaper than buying as single piece by piece.
If I buy it as single OEM from the Hondafactoryparts.com, the cost of PP itself is almost $400.
Does FCC OEM is differ from OEM part?
If FCC OEM is same as OEM Honda clutch kit, I probably go with cheaper route and save bucks for next work.
btw, I don' do no racing, just use it as DD for fun driving.
The $469.95 kit on eBay appear to be genuine Honda parts and the price correlates to the genuine Honda clutch kit that can be sourced elsewhere in the world. The discrepancies in price between sellers can often be opportunistic.
Also don't forget to buy the throwout bearing guide for good measure - and a tub of Urea grease
I just did my clutch. I believe fcc is what is stamped on the oem disk. Should be genuine. I replaced my release bearing guide but I really didn't need too. My car also only had 34000 miles on it. You might as well get one as you've got a good amount of miles.
Maybe a slave cylinder boot while you're at it too if yours is old and cracked.
It's not genuine Honda parts if it doesn't come in Honda labeled package.
You might pay premium for just the Honda logo but there could be some small differences in the parts as well no one knows this for sure.
Personally I would probably get the ebay kit without much worry.
I think you should consider the prolite flywheel instead if you are going to replace that, there is no real drawback from the lighter version.
It's not genuine Honda parts if it doesn't come in Honda labeled package.
You might pay premium for just the Honda logo but there could be some small differences in the parts as well no one knows this for sure.
Personally I would probably get the ebay kit without much worry.
I think you should consider the prolite flywheel instead if you are going to replace that, there is no real drawback from the lighter version.
Agreed on the Prolite. If you're coming from an Ap1 with an already decently light factory flywheel, shedding a few more pounds is negligible. It'll be a pretty noticeable change going from a heavy Ap2 flywheel to an 8.6 lb prolite though, but you'll get used to it pretty quickly. I have lightweight flywheels in both my S as well as my daily driver Civic Si; as long as you're not using a competition disk or something it's really compliant; I have no problems with them in traffic etc.
The stock disc is organic...so it doesn't really cut metal at any appreciable rate.
See if you even need a new pressure plate. Your existing one should be fine at 100K. Unless you wore down the disc to the rivets or something.
I've done a couple clutch jobs and reused the OEM plate. I refinished them myself with a drill and polymer/ceramic paint strip disc. Someone "LOL'd" at me for this idea in the past. But...read below.
Rockauto has sachs clutch kits that appear to be the same design as OEM. They're almost for sure not the same as a dealer part. But the OEM design does seem to allow them to work. I think they're around $350ish.
Be careful. Sachs and other manufacturers just source the parts and sell them it seems from (Idk what suppliers).
So make sure when you get your parts, they're the same design as OEM. The plate and disc should have a "Honda" stamp and the disc should have enclosed springs. This likely means that the manufacturer either copied the Honda stamping die OR is using Honda cores to remanufacture and sell as new.
Here's some screenshots from rockauto. Just make sure the parts you get match up with these features. Note the enclosed springs too.
They carry other brands that have similar parts too...
This one notes "flywheel spec +0.059". IDK wtf that means. Maybe that the PP is machined up to 0.059" from original. Which again just fortifies the theory that they are reworked, used Honda cores. Someone sends in a OEM core. These blokes clean, refinish, and resurface them. Who's LOLing now?
Last edited by B serious; Dec 4, 2020 at 08:46 AM.
Replacement clutch question
