This is how thin/thick the shim is = 2,91 mm.
3rd try was the best, 0,01 mm difference is not bad I reckon.

Heating up the main pinion bearing to 90 C to make pressing a bit more easy.

That "rusty tool" was clean and machined at the ends.
Found it in the "used steel section"

Pinion installed.
Just the sitting in the main bearing, not torqued down yet.
The propshaft companion flange to torque it down with is still on the car.

The total thickness of the metal blocks inc feeler was 20.0 mm.
20.0 + 34.00 = 54.00 mm.
As soon as the pinion is torqued to spec I think it will sink to the Richmond checking distance of 54.15 mm.
I wil make sure before going further with the install.
If I dont reach it (or do not like what I see) I will make another shim.

 

Wrenching on a 6 1/2 half year old car can be a huge PITA!
Dirt, rust, salt, .... pffff

But the diff is out.
The "pumpkin" bolts soaked in WD40 before trying to see if they are able to be loosened up.


One broken bolt
One of 4 that hold the diff onto the "B" support brackets.
The two you should remove according to service manual.
At work I will be able to get the broken one out, ordering a new one will mess up my schedule of driving @ Tuesday


A nice see through.
(to prove the diff is really gone )

 

The broken bolt came out, thread not to badly damaged

Here is a first look inside.


After 119245 km it looks pretty good (to me)


This is where the output shafts go in.
The little groove in the splines is where the clip goes that holds the shaft.
The splines are the Torsen side gears.
Oiler hole for the outputshaft / Torsen housing.
Oiler groove in outputshaft (no pic)


Old versus new.


Word of advice: its worth checking the Torsen bearings before you decide to remove them.
They are not easy to remove (understatement).
I've broken a bearing puller on them. (haven't told the boss yet )
Last remedy was to grind throught them. Had to completely seal the Torsen first.
It worked. Looking back IMO the bearings were good, even after the km's.
But I bought them so I'm gonna use them!
The new ones need to be heated up to 110C I think to make pressing easy / possible. (not done yet => tomorrow)

 

If you did not need that part so fast, I have a few I would let go cheap. That is the one on the rear of the diff, right?

Also, I don't remove that from the car, I remove the diff from it. I also loosen the front mounts from the car and pull one bolt from the inside of each. This way the swing out of the way. Also I pull the Charcoal canister and let it hang free. This gives me the forward movement needed to remove and reinstall with interferance.

Also, last hint. Fill it with oil before you mount it back in the car. It is far easier to on the ground.

 

Also. Please post the gear mesh pattern with marking compound. I would like to see the pattern from both sides, Thrust and Coast

 

Stratocaster : it was the smaller one at the front side of the diff. I was planning to not remove them it but I had to.

With the pinion torqued down to spec the checking distance increased by at least 0,05 mm.
I could not get the 0,10 mm underneath. It was good enough for me.
CD = 54,07 or something.


After heating the Torsen bearings up to 110 C they went on with no problem.
It took some time to make the pressing tools.


The new 4,57-R mesh.


This is how I measuered the backlash.
(dont look at the mess in the background)


The backlash I went for.
0,19 mm = 0,075"
A little on the tight side but it will wear to spec no doubt.


The two contact patches.
Outlined because it was hard to see on the picture.
I "assumed" we had the prussian blue... so I used a white spray we use for die-checking.
It did work for me and easy to wash away before closing the diff.
IMO they look correct.



As xviper showed in his pictures, my "pumpkin" is also "cracked".
IMO they are not cracks. More like casting veins or something.
They look very simular to the ones in xvipers picture.
You could feel them being higher and sharpish. Not disturbing.


New bolts arrived too
Rebuild the car tomorrow.
Heat cycle (3 times - 10 miles)
Looking forward

 

Ohh yeah... I allready filled the diff with Marine Oil

 

The diff is back where it belongs.
Just finished the heat cycles.
It has a nice whine, I like it
Taking it easy for a while is not going to be easy

Some info I forgot to post yesterday (no pictures anymore... sorry)

The pinion nut was torqued to 140 Nm to get to the spec pinion turning torque of 1,2 (about) Nm.
Preload of the Torsen bearings was hard to get right.
In combination with the backlash, the right notch for the first is the wrong one for the last.
In the end I found a setting that worked (thats why the backlash is on the tight side = compromise).

The nuts & botls for the inboard joints are "special" according to the service manual.
What is so special about them? The nuts are no locking nuts and the thread on the bolt is not "egg-shaped" for self-locking.
I did not get new ones, re-used the "old" ones.
Any opinions about those nuts & bolts?

 

They are stretch bolts and Honda wanted them to be replaced. I found that if you torque them to spec you are fine. if you over tighten them, they will give. I have reused them countless times on my car. I have also swapped them when needed. It is a crapshoot, so it is better to have them on hand just in case you need them. Because Honda does not stock these and there can be a wait to get them. Beter safe then sorry.

As far as your install went, I am glad to hear you like them. Now get that core back

 

on setting up the gear.

I've used a bearing seperator and a 3 jaw puller to remove the carrier bearings, destroying the cage and rollers is pretty much guarenteed.