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I've blew an engine because of a crappy oil-pickup in the late '90s (SR20DET). It had rod-knock that got worse and worse, louder and louder, until... pop!
Your videos doesn't sound like rod-knock, imo (I could always be wrong tho). Yours is a bit too bass'y and hollow sounding. Rod knock (from my experiences) sound a bit more defined, sharper and shorter in tone... kinda like a hammer tapping on metal inside a metal box(a block).
Not sure... it could be tho, since it changes when you press the clutch in (maybe the main bearings or thrust washers shift a little while doing so, and changes contact points of internals)... maybe flywheel, irdk.
I would start by draining the oil into a clean drain pan and checking for metal flakes/chunks. You could also pull the vtec solenoid and check the screen for flakes.
If you don't find flakes then its probably safe to assume there is something up with the clutch or something that was removed when the clutch was replaced. I wouldn't think you'd get a thrust bearing failure in only 320 miles with that clutch so hopefully it was just an install error or a bad clutch.
This is too bad. May need to go back in and change pressure plate and replace pilot bearing. Use an OEM pressure plate. I replaced the original pilot bearing with a Nachi made one. Smooth as silk and very quiet.
Pressure plate should be made by FCC.
Last edited by windhund116; Dec 9, 2021 at 06:22 AM.
Confused. Engine appears to be stock. Why get an aftermarket clutch?
Aftermarket clutch on this car is chock full of compromises that are only acceptable if its the only way to contain extreme power levels. Like 500hp+.
Below ~450whp stock clutch with act pressure plate is the go to solution.
Stock clutch is excellent even with reasonable power adders.
Aftermarket clutch on stock power is just begging for problems.
I have a KW Supercharger that was going to get installed. I wanted to install the clutch prior to the supercharger installation so I could break it in.
- If it gets worse/louder and/or also blows up, then it's rod-knock. Should blow quickly, within 100miles, more or less. My SR20det blew within 5-10 miles from first hearing the knock (normal 20-40mph granny driving).
- If the sound stays the same, and you can drive it for hundreds of miles, without blowing it up, then it's most likely flywheel/clutch/bearing related.
To me, it sounds like the flywheel is hitting/scraping against something (maybe debris?). Or, as others mentioned, pilot bearing is prolly loose/broken. Or, perhaps, the trans isn't aligned to the block (missing dowel pins). Best is to take it to a good mechanic.
Talk to the guys that installed your clutch, tell them you suspect an issue with the install or parts used, have them get it up on the rack and listen to it. Hopefully they are a reputable shop and will stand behind their work if it is the clutch. I agree with most, that this doesn't sound like typical rod knock, and suspect clutch or trans related issue. The fact that the sound changes or goes away when clutch pushed in is a pretty dead give away its not engine related. It would be clutch related components or trans input shaft bearing failure most likely. Don't keep driving it, you're either going to cause damage/more damage, or at minimum cause yourself a headache and an added tow bill. If you do any further driving at all, save it for the trip to the guys that installed your clutch and hopefully it gets left there and addressed on the spot.
Last edited by s2000Junky; Dec 9, 2021 at 05:46 PM.
