S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

rod knock

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Old Jul 21, 2006 | 02:34 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by WalkingDrunken,Jul 21 2006, 01:39 PM
You'll just need a shortblock re-build. The head has nothing to do with a rod knocking. It is simply the main bearing or rod bearing wearing extremely thin or actually breaking (spun bearing).

And I think you mean long block,short block or both.
Big blocks are from american car manufactureres.

I priced out a head rebuild and I think it came out to ~1,000 in parts alone. So you can figure 1,500-2,000 for a head rebuild without doing any crazy porting or anything.
okay i am dumb- so the longblock is the head- and the shortblock is the "bottom half"- and i need a "shortblock rebuild" ? did you call honda for the rebuild? thanks i am mechanically stupid- you know the friend that while you guys are turning wrenches i am the one responsible for pizza gathering and beer scavenging
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Old Jul 21, 2006 | 02:44 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by bizlipkick,Jul 21 2006, 04:34 PM
okay i am dumb- so the longblock is the head- and the shortblock is the "bottom half"- and i need a "shortblock rebuild" ? did you call honda for the rebuild? thanks i am mechanically stupid- you know the friend that while you guys are turning wrenches i am the one responsible for pizza gathering and beer scavenging
No, "longblock" is nearly the whole engine, without all the ancillary parts (alternator, A/C, etc.). "Shortblock" is just the metal part the pistons sit in. You don't have to call Honda for a rebuilt. Almost any experienced licenced mechanic should be able to do it.
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Old Jul 21, 2006 | 06:36 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by xviper,Jul 21 2006, 02:44 PM
No, "longblock" is nearly the whole engine, without all the ancillary parts (alternator, A/C, etc.). "Shortblock" is just the metal part the pistons sit in. You don't have to call Honda for a rebuilt. Almost any experienced licenced mechanic should be able to do it.
and they just rebuild it with oem parts? or do they just take it apart and replace whats broken or wrong? i am an idiot- i am sure they do what you ask...
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Old Jul 21, 2006 | 07:42 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by SCCS2K,Jul 21 2006, 10:45 AM
So I figured since I needed a valve job, might as well get a 3-angle...
The stock valve seats have a 4 angle valve grind. I hope they duplicated the stock valve seat angles, instead of reducing them.
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Old Jul 21, 2006 | 07:45 PM
  #25  
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It depends on what you want done and what needs to be done. You don't need a new shortblock unless you've shot a rod through the walls of your old one. If you've spun a bearing on the crank (or the rod), you might only need new bearings (clean up and machine the old one) or you might need a new crank and bearings. The thing is, once you open up an engine, you will see what else you might want to replace since getting the engine to that stage is the bulk of the expense. For example, you may be going in for scored cylinder liners, but if you've got the pistons out anyway, maybe you ought to change all the crank bearings since they're exposed. It can just snowball and put a bigger and bigger dent in your bank account.
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Old Jul 21, 2006 | 08:08 PM
  #26  
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yea its just a slight knock- i am pretty sure i will need to set bacck a few g's because once i open it up ill probably want to replace quite a few things. thanks for all the info--
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