Another tip to prevent rounding bolts when removing is to smack the wrench with the palm of your hand, rather then trying to pull/push on it with weight.

 

Or use a big enough wrench, why make the job difficult on yourself.

If all else fails, there's always those cheap ass grip tite sockets, they'll destroy the bolt but u'll get it out.

 

Vise-grip clamped onto rounded bolt sometimes works, too.

 

Irwin bolt grips works wonders. Saved my tail plenty of times.

http://www.irwin.com/tools/screw-bol...-grip-base-set

 

So, I finally got it off. Got a 15\16 six point socket as billman suggested, but it kept sliding off the bolt. Trying to hold the socket in place with one hand wasn't giving me the power I needed. So I took my floor jack and jacked it up to hold the ratchet in place. Almost to the point where it was lifting the car up. I was able to wail on this thing and after a few kickbacks, it finally broke loose. Waiting on a new drain bolt to come in and it'll be good. Thanks for your help, as always,Guys

Edit: is there anything I can do to prevent the new bolt from getting stuck like this the next time I go to change the fluid?

 

Yeah, don't crank down on it. There's no pressure behind it so it doesn't need to be super tight.

 

Its easier when the engine is close to temperature.

 

This is what I do... Clean the contact surface of the diff with emery cloth or steel wool --- to get rid of any oxidation and goombas leftover from the last removal. Apply thin coat of lube (like moly grease) onto this surface, the surfaces of the washer, and contact face & threads of bolt. Then, torque the bolt to proper tightness. The lube helps to keep the parts from seizing up on each other (due to long term hot-cold cycling and electrolysis between the different metals).

 

The 15/16 socket was a great suggestion!

Make sure you put on new crush washers and only torque to 33 ft-lbs

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/348...-fluid-change/