Please don't say 'bin it'

So I have installed my neo, along with a Zeitronix ZT-3/1

Got the Gauge in the mode select spot it looks fairly neat with the wires for both this and the neo tucked up behind the dash so nothings on show other than my little black box for when I want to plug the ZT3 into my PC.

Now, I see most people tend to make some sort of gain when lowering the VTEC to around 5000, I personally would like 4800 and have give both a try.

Now it may be worth noting, I have a full stainless exhaust with decat, and an unknown stainless exhaust manifold with an AEM V1 on the intake side.

Completely stock (in terms of tune) the AFR is mid 13's until around 7800 where it richens up, this isn't something I am having trouble with, my problem starts when I go to lower the VTEC in any way whatsoever.

I cannot get the AFR lower than 14.2 (normally high 14's) WOT between 4000 & 6000 RPM and there still seems to be a big power leap at ~6000 RPM where the fueling is increased by the ECU for the Hi Cam state. using my arse it is hard to tell which is giving more the low can or high cam with this happening, they feel the same except the high cam feels like its really struggling to make power.

I am struggling to get any real information on how to use the VTEC Unmatch setting but one thing is changing it doesn't really do anything to my AFR, I might get a few points difference, but I tried it from -25% to +25% and there was no real difference.

Ultimately my question here is does anyone have any pointers for me for helping this? She hasn't seen a dyno yet as this was just a basic street tune aiming at AFR of 13-13.8 across the range.

A second question I have is, if I am to install an FPR, will that alone help me deliver more fuel or would I need to subsequently buy a higher pressure fuel pump?

I struggle to see how a pressure regulator can create pressure, unless my understanding of them is that minimal that I can be classified as a noob. I can easily get an FPR and install it myself as they seems relatively cheap and if it will instantly give me a much more reliable s2000 I would be happy to get it done - to a point where I might do it anyway fot shits n gigs.

All responses & experiences (other than bin the neo) are welcome

Cheers
Earl

 

I have tried with just the vtec lowered and no adjustments and the power seems to be much more linear although still running high 14's and a blip at 15 somewhere close to 5800, to me this is too dangerous let alone the potential power dip.

This is with both lowered to5000 and 4800...

On a positive note I decided to start cleaning my engine bay as it was not in the best if nick tbh. Amazing what a bit of muc off can do.

 

You can't ad fuel with the Apexi, only subtract.
You need to install a FPR and raise the fuel pressure until your AFR gets low enough and then use the Apexi to remove the fuel where it needs.

 

Thanks a lot, I thought so much, I'm actually in the process of ordering an AEM FPR now so hopefully should get it installed once in back. Looks simple enough, hopefully get her running well for my trip down to Peebles.

Anyone had any issues with the aem?

And if I don't fancy a permanent FPG what alternative solutions could you suggest? I am under the understanding that the aem 'honda fpr' doesn't have a threaded slot for a gauge/sensor and I don't fancy shelling out on the fuel rail just so I can stick a gauge on it, when the tune I am after is by no means a pony chaser.

I'm thinking about starting at the base fuel pressure of 40psi, doing a run, then adjusting it at 1/2 a turn at a time until I reach 13.5 AFR at my leanest point? Then simply leaning out the areas that require it (my assumption being everywhere from ~6000rpm onwards).

An FPR is a definite upgrade I am installing, however just out of interest, is there not way of telling the stock ecu the car is in high cam allowing it to fuel for it while the car hits it's lowered VTEC engagement point? Either I am VAFCing wrong (which to me seems incredibly difficult other than the elusive VTEC Unmatch), the NEO is incapable of of performing this trickery or the fueling for low and high cam at WOT is the same - full pelt.


Long post again I apologise,

Cheers in advance for any pointers,

Earl.

 

I haven't been messing with any FPR so don't have any pointers about that but your thoughts seems good.
The big flaw of piggyback tuning is that you are constantly fighting the stock ecu.
I don't think there is a better solution for full control other than a standalone ecu or flashpro.
There are other piggyback systems like the Greddy EMU that can control the injectors directly though, with that you wont need a FPR.