>> S2000 Valve Adjustment, Step-By-Step
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 8,646
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From: Chapel Hill, NC
In all honesty valves probably should be adjusted at 50K just to make sure all is well. Only before that if you KNOW that they are noisy or spend lots of time up between 7K and 9K. And I mean ALOT! Numerous track days/auto-x's etc where most if not all of your time is in VTEC and at the upper end of VTEC.
I did mine at about 45K and felt next to nothing. All valves were within spec.
I did mine at about 45K and felt next to nothing. All valves were within spec.
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Joined: Mar 2002
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I've adjusted mine several times in the 16K miles I've had my '02. I think it is a good idea to adjust them right after the car is broken in, since the valve clearances will change as the valves seat.
One thing I did on my last adjustment was to reduce the clearances by .001", or so, since they are already fully seated, and I will adjust them more often than the suggested service interval. I wouldn't say that it makes a noticeable difference, but it increases lift and duration by a tad.
If it wasn't already mentioned, it is REALLY important to measure the clearance between the valve spring retainer and adjuster screw, and NOT between the roller rocker and cam lobe (as with some Honda's). I made this mistake on my first adjustment.
Destiny2002,
Those pictures are copy righted by Helms. Someone (you, S2KI, etc.) could get in trouble for posting them...
One thing I did on my last adjustment was to reduce the clearances by .001", or so, since they are already fully seated, and I will adjust them more often than the suggested service interval. I wouldn't say that it makes a noticeable difference, but it increases lift and duration by a tad.
If it wasn't already mentioned, it is REALLY important to measure the clearance between the valve spring retainer and adjuster screw, and NOT between the roller rocker and cam lobe (as with some Honda's). I made this mistake on my first adjustment.
Destiny2002,
Those pictures are copy righted by Helms. Someone (you, S2KI, etc.) could get in trouble for posting them...
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Long Island, New York
Love step 36 "Check over the job, and be sure all the tools are still accounted for". I wonder if a set of feeler gauges shredded in the camshafts would be covered under warranty. Great post!
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,307
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From: Jackson
You don't have to take out the spark plus for this job to be performed. that step should be omitted. Also the assembly the adjustment screw is screwed into can be pushed up and down with your finger, you should put that the adjustment should be performed with these screws at rest (in other words make sure they are pushed down and not pushed up).
very good write up though!
very good write up though!
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,307
Likes: 1
From: Jackson
Originally posted by Destiny2002
The spark plugs are removed to eliminate engine compression in the cylinders, which makes it possible engine over by hand with the wrench on the crankshaft bolt and land at TDC for each cylinder.
I'm not clear on what the second part of your comment is describing... Please clarify.
Thanks,
Paul
The spark plugs are removed to eliminate engine compression in the cylinders, which makes it possible engine over by hand with the wrench on the crankshaft bolt and land at TDC for each cylinder.
I'm not clear on what the second part of your comment is describing... Please clarify.
Thanks,
Paul
The set screw rests in that little round thing that is connected to a pivoting mechanism. you want to make sure that mechanism is pushed down (at rest) instead of being pushed up.
