This is Destiny's original valve adjustment document. maybe xviper can edit his post and put the link on it

http://www.squeezer.net/s2ki.com/S2K_Valve.pdf

 

Thanks Squeezer!

 

Bringing back a post, I did my valves earlier today. Thanks for the info and great write ups. I didn't have the Helm's manual but managed all right because this thread is pretty detailed. I bought that Gear Ratchet set and it worked pretty well also. The pieces look kind of thin/weak, but it does have a lifetime warranty so no worries.

Anyway, after all was finished the car felt much smoother; Especially down low. Between 3000 and 6000 the car feels much more "peppy". I was thinking the valves were the cause of my ticking noise, but it is still present. Maybe an exhaust leak? I dunno, but I only adjusted about 1/3 of them...the rest were pretty damn close to what they're supposed to be at. I'll probably be doing this again soon and will adjust all of them.

Once again, thanks to everyone for the info the write ups. I was going to take it to the dealer under warranty but didn't feel like dealing with them and like to know that I can do it myself.

Robert

 

Good writeup. I just finished adjusting the valves following it and I would like to make a few comments.

1) You don't need to remove TDC1 sensor from the valve cover, you need to remove the TDC2 sensor, which is the one on top of the cover.

2) You don't need to remove the bolt for the bracket on the firewall that holds the coolant hose and the wiring harness. All you need to do it pull the plastic clip on the wiring harness off the bracket and this should give you enough play to move it out of the way.

3) I would recomment removing the spark plugs as the second to last step right before you remove the valve cover bolts. this will ensure that you don't knock any debris down into the cylinders while youre fussing with the rest of the steps.

4) You should consider removing the battery heat sheild for better access to exhaust valves for cyl 3 and 4. It would definitely help, but getting at the rear bolt to the heat sheild isn't the easiest job.

5) MAKE SURE you don't leave the car in gear! When you rotate the crankshaft, its going to spin the clutch and the tranny so if its in gear, the car is going to want to roll which would make it very difficult to turn the crank.

 

I found a cheap and effective valve adjustement tool at Advance Auto Parts online. I used it last night and it works great.


Powerbuilt Tools part number 648867

 

Dunno what it's like to adjust valves inside an actual S2000 cause my engine is pretty out in the open, but a little trick I use that gets the job done in about 15 minutes is to adjust by turns of the adjustment screw rather than with a guage.

It seems that the threads on the adjustment screw are such that each full turn moves the "clearance" 29.2 thousanths of an inch or .0292" for you engineers. That being the case I just turn the screw down until I feel zero clearance and then back it out 1/4 turn for the intakes and 1/3 of a turn for the exhausts.

One final note, I use NO shortcuts when adjusting the valves. I go down the line once side of one cylinder at a time. I was cutting corners once and failed to tighten a jam nut. Car was making a heck of a TAP TAP TAP at the end of the run. Luckily the nut was sitting in a low spot on the head so I just re-installed everything.

And keep the shiny side up.

Jim

 

good find!

 

You removed spark plugs is this just so there is no compression and it is easier?

Also in the manual it says .008-.010 in. for Intake
It says .010-.011 in.

Setting it at 11 is just as good as 10 or in between? Anyone use a certain number? thanks.

 

Anyone have pics of this tool?

 

bump