Shifter Glitch
Anybody have this problem??
When I push the shifter down to engage reverse it will not pop back up on its own when i go back to shift the forward gears. I have to pull it back up. If I don't reverse is not locked out and I can sometimes miss the 5 to 6th shift and clip the reverse gear. The grinding noise is somewhat disturbing!!!
I took the shifter apart and there was water in the top of it so there was some minor corrosion and all the grease was kaput. I cleaned it up and changed the grease and put it back together but no change. The shifter spring is in place as it should be.
Anybody else had this problem or know what is causing it and a fix? Besdies the shifter assembly/spring : itself what makes the reverse linkage spring back into the lockout position?
confused:
When I push the shifter down to engage reverse it will not pop back up on its own when i go back to shift the forward gears. I have to pull it back up. If I don't reverse is not locked out and I can sometimes miss the 5 to 6th shift and clip the reverse gear. The grinding noise is somewhat disturbing!!!
I took the shifter apart and there was water in the top of it so there was some minor corrosion and all the grease was kaput. I cleaned it up and changed the grease and put it back together but no change. The shifter spring is in place as it should be.
Anybody else had this problem or know what is causing it and a fix? Besdies the shifter assembly/spring : itself what makes the reverse linkage spring back into the lockout position?
confused:
In the forward gears, nothing "locks" the shifter in the "up" position. Only the spring does this. Somehow, water is getting into that area from below. This is corroding an area which needs to be greased and it's drying it out. This makes everything riggid and stiff. The spring can't do its job. You need to find out why water is getting up there. Clean out the area at the base of the stick and re-grease everything.
Originally Posted by vAnt,Jun 1 2005, 02:50 PM
I saw a post before mentioning that you needed to replace a cage.
There was no 'greasing' up, the only way to fix it was the replace the cage.
There was no 'greasing' up, the only way to fix it was the replace the cage.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=41390
Great info. I checked out this link and it had some really good background on the shifter issue and on another unrelated noise issue. My local dealer was unaware of or either!
Relative to the shifter, since I already cleaned it up and regreased it and it is still not poping back up once engaged for reverse I probably have to go back in and clean out some surface corrosion in the cast cup the nylon ball at the end of the shifter seats down into. Is this right?
Also, I still don't understand how the whole linkage works for reverse. When you depress the shift lever down to engage reverse, shouldn't it in turn be pushing down on the assembly it seats into and if so what make that linkasge/shaft pop back up unless it is also spring loaded somehow?
Thanks
Relative to the shifter, since I already cleaned it up and regreased it and it is still not poping back up once engaged for reverse I probably have to go back in and clean out some surface corrosion in the cast cup the nylon ball at the end of the shifter seats down into. Is this right?
Also, I still don't understand how the whole linkage works for reverse. When you depress the shift lever down to engage reverse, shouldn't it in turn be pushing down on the assembly it seats into and if so what make that linkasge/shaft pop back up unless it is also spring loaded somehow?
Thanks
There are two white bushings, one small, one large.
These are what slide up and down. Large one in the trans housing, small one in the shift rod hole.
Reverse linkage...there's a tab on the drivers side of the shifter. When you push down, the tab goes under the plate towards the left, allowing the shifter to go right, then down.
These are what slide up and down. Large one in the trans housing, small one in the shift rod hole.
Reverse linkage...there's a tab on the drivers side of the shifter. When you push down, the tab goes under the plate towards the left, allowing the shifter to go right, then down.
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Here's would could be happening in your case....corrosion has built up on the INSIDE of the white bushings, between them and the shifter, expanding them.
Here's what you do....
Soak the shifter in really hot water for about 4 minutes, then pull the bushings off. If you don't soak them, I can almost guartantee you will crack them. Note the position of the large one, so it goes back on the same way.
Clean the shifter with a wire brush, if needed.
Clean, and lube the INSIDE AND THE OUTSIDE of the bushings with heavy wheel bearing grease, and use plently. They are double duty bushings, the outside and inside are used in movment. The shifter housing is separate from the trans casing, so you don't have to worry about contamination.
Hope this helps...
All good info. I took the shifter out and apart, wire wheeled the metal shifter shaft to eliminate any rust then greased and reassembled. (I did dissassemble the nylon bushinngs and cleaned them without cracking by the way) What I did not do and shoudld have was remove the corrosion better on the shifter housing. Now that i have it back together it will pop back up only if ai give it a tug and when I run for a while and the assembly get hot it will not pop back up till it cools down. next step is to take it back appart and sand the corrosion out of the housing assembly. PS I used Hi temp wheel bearing grease for the reasembly.
I think it's the luck of the draw, when it comes to pulling them without cracking if you don't heat them. 4 minutes in hot water is well worth it, since most dealers will not have these in stock.







