should i be concerned? (a story)
#1
should i be concerned? (a story)
ok.... i had my car off the ground and in non-driving condition for a little over 2 months...
i was installing my greddy block adaptor and it leaked because i put it on backwards..!
second time i put it on, the o-ring was cut because it was improperly installed... soo i used the o-ring off an old oil filter because it was a near perfect fit with some high temp gasket maker.. i also installed aftermarket gauges and put in bosch platinum spark plugs...so i had a check engine light when i turned on the car but no low pressure oil light...i was thinking at first maybe it was lack of oil pressure because of the leak or misfire because of the new plugs or bad fuel (fuel deterioration) when i brought a friend to do the paper clip trick to read the cel code, it didnt blink at all but when he turned it off and turned it back on the cel magically disappeared.. so the point is should i be concerned about this?
also my readings of the gauges are slightly higher than 180f on oil temp at full warmup and 88 psi on oil pressure... the oil pressure on first startup was reading at 100psi idle but slowly backed down...is this also normal?
i believe thats everything off the top of my head...
i was installing my greddy block adaptor and it leaked because i put it on backwards..!
second time i put it on, the o-ring was cut because it was improperly installed... soo i used the o-ring off an old oil filter because it was a near perfect fit with some high temp gasket maker.. i also installed aftermarket gauges and put in bosch platinum spark plugs...so i had a check engine light when i turned on the car but no low pressure oil light...i was thinking at first maybe it was lack of oil pressure because of the leak or misfire because of the new plugs or bad fuel (fuel deterioration) when i brought a friend to do the paper clip trick to read the cel code, it didnt blink at all but when he turned it off and turned it back on the cel magically disappeared.. so the point is should i be concerned about this?
also my readings of the gauges are slightly higher than 180f on oil temp at full warmup and 88 psi on oil pressure... the oil pressure on first startup was reading at 100psi idle but slowly backed down...is this also normal?
i believe thats everything off the top of my head...
#2
oh btw... the oil pressure sender is located by the battery via through stainless steel line from the block adaptor... the oil temp is where the oem oil pressure sender (which is located in the block adaptor as well) is at for better readings via xviper's info that the oil filter has a cooling jacket..
#3
Registered User
1) For something as critical as a seal in the oiling system I would want to use the correct o-ring.
2) Your engine oil temperature is correct. It should be 176 deg. F when fully warm (fan goes on twice).
3) It is completely normal for oil pressure to start off high and drop as the engine warms up. This is because the oil starts out quite viscous and then thins out during warmup. However, depending on the engine RPM of your measurement, your oil pressure reading may be high. When the engine is fully warmed up oil pressure should be 36 psi at idle and 85 psi at 3,000 RPM. I'm betting that your reported value is at this higher RPM.
4) I can't explain the CEL, but 2 months isn't too long for gasoline to sit. Whatch for the CEL and if it returns have someone with a code reader pull the code.
Your guages are a valuable tool in determining when you can drive more aggressively. I bet you'll be surprised at how long it takes to fully warm the engine beyond the point that the OEM coolant temperature guage moves to 3 bars (or more in the '04). Drive gently until you reach correct operating temperature for the oil.
2) Your engine oil temperature is correct. It should be 176 deg. F when fully warm (fan goes on twice).
3) It is completely normal for oil pressure to start off high and drop as the engine warms up. This is because the oil starts out quite viscous and then thins out during warmup. However, depending on the engine RPM of your measurement, your oil pressure reading may be high. When the engine is fully warmed up oil pressure should be 36 psi at idle and 85 psi at 3,000 RPM. I'm betting that your reported value is at this higher RPM.
4) I can't explain the CEL, but 2 months isn't too long for gasoline to sit. Whatch for the CEL and if it returns have someone with a code reader pull the code.
Your guages are a valuable tool in determining when you can drive more aggressively. I bet you'll be surprised at how long it takes to fully warm the engine beyond the point that the OEM coolant temperature guage moves to 3 bars (or more in the '04). Drive gently until you reach correct operating temperature for the oil.
#5
In sub-freezing temps, using synthetic oil, I have seen after a cold start, the oil pressure go up near 95 PSI when the car is driven immediately (keeping revs no more than about 4000 rpm). This pressure does not last long - maybe about 5 minutes or less. However, I don't see the pressure this high during a cold start in the warmer months (perhaps only 80 - 85 psi for the first few minutes).
#7
Originally posted by mikecl713
could it be since its a new unit the oil filling up the pressure sender could be self calibrating? or breaking in?
could it be since its a new unit the oil filling up the pressure sender could be self calibrating? or breaking in?
One other thought -- If, while you were installing all this stuff, did you by chance forget to plug in a wiring harness harness somewhere and started the car? Check that all wiring harnesses are solidly connected and that all sensors are NOT, in some way, poorly grounded.
Also, after a period of storage, you could have gotten a momentary CEL due to the gas cap - more likely a glitch since the CEL went out so quickly.
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