gary_phd

I don't readily have a helper, so I wanted to know if one can do a clutch flush on your own? I searched, but found that you'll need a helper, particularly at the end. Could you use a speedbleeder? Didn't too good of reviews for these.

I thought of possibly using a stick or pole to keep the clutch depressed as I open the bleeder. Close the bleeder, the raise the pedal myself. Complete the flush as instructed. And, at the end, quickly open the bleeder and jump in the car to depress the pedal for the last time, and quickly underneath to close the bleeder.

Think it's doable?

I've bleed brakes successfully with pressure bleeders (e.g., Motiv's), but can't seem to find a consensus on their use with the clutch.

Thanks in advance for any input!

Asura

The clutch pedal, in my experience, is not spring loaded like the brake pedal due to less pressure. It really takes very little fluid and time for a full flush.

gary_phd

think I can bleed it without a second person? I'm actually doing the slave mod, so I know I'll have a lot of air in the system.

Intrepid175

Not that last part, at least not as you describe it. If the clutch peddle comes off the floor, even a little, before you close that bleeder valve, you suck air back into the system.

I see no reason why a pressure bleeder wouldn't work. They also make suction bleeders that will work. I used one on the hydraulic brake and clutch systems on my motorcycle. I see no reason why it wouldn't work on the car as well.

The tricky part is not letting the master cylinder run dry. It doesn't hold that much in the first place and once the system starts moving fluid, it'll empty out pretty quickly!

Drive Safe,
Steve R.

gary_phd

[QUOTE=Intrepid175,Dec 26 2005, 09:55 PM]Not that last part, at least not as you describe it.

Hockey

You do NOT need a second person to bleed the clutch (or brakes for that matter). Thanks to a very seasoned race shop owner in San Diego, I learned of an effective and inexpensive technique. Since I ran a one-man mobile service operation and did a number of these type jobs I needed a viable solution. Here is what he suggested......

I typically attached a small length of flexible tubing to the bleed valve, making it easy to direct it into a catch can (or empty water bottle). HIS idea is to use a longer length of tubing and make a loop in it. If you make the loop curl UP from the bleed valve and then down to the drain bottle, you will have a supply of fluid caught in the line......not air. Even if you get some back flowing (which you do not) there is no risk of drawing in any air.



So open up the clutch reservoir. Such out the fluid in there with a turkey baster (per XViper's DIY) taking care not to drip any on the paint. After sufficiently drained, go ahead and fill it back up with fresh fluid.

Next........crawl onder the car, attach the tubing to the valve and make your loop. Stick the other end into the bottle and open the bleed valve.

Then get out from under the car and push down on the clutch pedal. It will be very easy and fall to the floorboard (since the bleed valve is open). You have to raise it back up with you hand. I just push and pull the pedal with my hand since it is that easy.

Only pump it about 4-5 times before getting out up refill the clutch reservoir. It has a very small capacity and you'll drain it quickly and start pulling in air so again only pump it about 4-5 times and refill. About 3 cycles of this will be enough to completely purge the lines of any old fluid and you'll actually be able to see fresh fluid coming out of the tube when you get back under the car.

Almost done. Make sure the pedal is in the up (normal) position. Top off the fluid and replace cap. Lastly crawl back under the car, tighten the valve and remove the tubing....draining the last of the trapped fluid into the bottle. Do a little clean up/wiping and you are done.

I can do this bleed in about the same amount of time it took me to type this out (slow typer). NEVER an issue and numerous jobs under my belt. As a matter of fact it is time for my car to get another brake and clutch bleed again.

Gotta go, but feel free to ask if you need some clarification.

-Hockey

gary_phd

[QUOTE=Hockey,Dec 27 2005, 09:32 AM]
I typically attached a small length of flexible tubing to the bleed valve, making it easy to direct it into a catch can (or empty water bottle).

Hockey

You got both points correct. If I could sketch somthing here I would, but the upward loop starts just after the bleeder. The zip-tie is not a bad idea.

The valve remains open and since the fluid goes UP in the tube, it will not simply "drain" out.

RedY2KS2k

Hockey,

That idea is brilliant! You just provided a reason for me to keep coming back to this site. Such great ideas are unfortunately few and far between around here any more.

Squeezer