flanders

How does the sensor work? Maybe it just needs some adjustment.

Car Analogy

I believe its a potentiometer. That is why I'm hoping it can be cleaned with tuner cleaner, and will work like new again.

The sensor is a sealed unit, so to accomplish this will require opening it up. I'm hoping to discover ideal place to just drill a hole, and spray with a red straw, that can become the standard way to renew this part, and extend its life.

Reseal hole with a dab of silicone, etc.

More to come...

flanders

The APP seem to have a connector with 6 pins, it's actually two sensors inside it (A and B) and they use 3 pins each.
Before you open it up you should measure the resistance on each sensor while you are slowly turning the throttle open/close and look for irregularities.

I'm trying to think of a reason why the aftermarket sensor would shut you down just when it enters VTEC only.
I wonder if it uses just one sensor during low cam and for high cam both sensors needs to be reading correct.

Car Analogy

Good idea. I can compare the old sensor with new.

Deckoz

@Car Analogy you have to do honda throttle body reset after replacing the apps

similar to a idle relearn

1) Turn the ignition key to the RUN position for 2-seconds. Do not start the engine.
2) Start the engine and run it at 3,000 RPM until the radiator fans come on.
3) Then let the ending idle for five minutes with no loads (lights, heated seats, rear defogger, blower motor, radio, etc OFF)
4) After five minutes, shut off the engine.

basically the ecu has to relearn where "throttle closed" is. the voltage different between sensors shouldn't matter as long as it has the same scale, the ecu just needs to relearn proper closed voltage of the new sensor. you can do this over ob2 port as well with a. ob2 tool.

Likely the new sensor voltage is higher than the old sensor, making the ecu think the throttle is open out of bounds(101%+) and its kicking it to limp. A relearn should fix it

Car Analogy

Thx, I will try that!

I dismissed that since neither vendor I've tried said any calibration was required, and googling other Honda diys where this part has been available for longer did not reveal any calibration requirements.

I'm away on a trip, won't be able to try this for a week...

flanders

I doubt that procedure will help, but I guess it wont hurt to try.

Deckoz

not sure why you would expect it not to? idle relearn has always been a part of replacing a sensor, as historical data that builds the baseline data won't be the same. Idle relearn sets up the input baselines of all sensors.

Dunno but that's how Honda's have been for i dunno 30 or 40 years...

Hfreak

Not needed when I replaced mine, not really a sensor but a potentiometer as stated.

Car Analogy

A potentiometer used to detect physical position is in fact a sensor. It sends a signal that indicates position by varying how much of the reference signal voltage is present on the signal wire.

A potentiometer is a variable resistor. So its a voltage divider circuit, and how much it divides the voltage is based on the varying ratio of potentiometer resistance compared to total circuit resistance.