The issue is basically aluminum vs steel, high temps, and pressure, so you need an anti-seize to protect the threads and ensure the plugs don't weld themselves in. The NGK coating is good for the first time in, but afterward I'd clean the threads and use anti-seize to ensure the plug is removable without damaging the engine.

 

The s2000 is very picky about spark plugs, buy the correct one


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Thanks for the excellent write up. I know how to do basically nothing with cars, and this got me through changing the plugs on my MY08 today (83k miles). There was a very slight sputtering that kept coming up before, was subtle, but now it's gone, so I guess that was it!

Had only one significant snag - one of the bolts that secures the ignition coils snapped in half while I was tightening it. Had to get the bottom half out with pliers and was able to get another bolt at the hardware store. Scary, though.

GREAT tip on the electrical tape to secure the socket to the extension. That saved a lot of grief.

 

plu_zps02d632f1.jpg?t=1397030833

My plugs at 62K miles changed them and cleaned my IACV..
hopefully they look okay..

 

So everyone has these 'wire gapping gauges' what are they? I only know what a feeler gauge is...

 

Its just another type of feeler gauge. Readily available at auto parts stores. Picture a disk with a bunch of upside down U shaped wires of different gauges protruding.

 

Sears has them for <$5. Metric on one side, std the other.
Speaking of Sears, I got a Craftsman LOCKING extension and it solved any problems with sockets coming off. No tape needed. You have to pull back on the little lever to unlock it. Wish I knew they existed sooner.

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00123QN3M
I picked up these locking extensions about two years ago. They work well.

 

Oh ok. How are the wire gapping ones safer than normal feeler gauges?

 

I don't see how they could be safer.. wire gap gauge is just that.. a sized wire, instead of a sized flat sheet.