Wow... How could I have missed that??
But I specifically remember looking on here to figure out which plugs to run and what to gap them too. So they didn't come pre-gapped and people said to gap them.

 

Wow... How could I have missed that??
But I specifically remember looking on here to figure out which plugs to run and what to gap them too. So they didn't come pre-gapped and people said to gap them.
[/quote]

I've been gapping those plugs for probably the last 10 years on the S2000 and other cars I've owned. I've never had an issue, I do use a proper gapping tool and I know how to avoid damaging the electrodes. The gapping warnings apply to the oem plat. plugs as Honda doesn't want people messing with gaps if they don't know what they are doing, also the oem plugs have a platinum disc on the ground electrode which they don't want damaged. The oem plugs come pre-gapped and you basically change them when they are past the service limit rather than adjusting the gap to proper levels. Your iridium plugs can easily be gapped, as long as you know how to do it properly, the NGK IX Iridiums don't always come pre-gapped so you need to check and adjust if necessary.

I still think that you had detonation though, as the entire center electrode is blown away, in addition to the ground electrode. You may not have gapped them properly but I think it was detonation that caused the fatal blow.

 

How do you not have an afr gauge with your supercharger?

 

The NGX website has a good tutorial how to properly gap these plugs and why NOT to use the old style "coin" gap tools on these. It does not take much force to change the gap either way. Take it slow.

I suspect the plug pieces, after failing, banged up the rest of the plug. There still could be residue damage from the pieces. Maybe not.

 

This is the Iridium NGK plugs I've been using. It is pre-gapped to 1.1mm (0.044 inch).

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...&ref_=sr_1_1&s

 

what size pulley you're running with the SC?

 

The plugs that come in small cardboard boxes like the laser iridiums are pre-gapped, many auto parts stores sell ones in clear plastic containers (IX series Iridiums) that are not pre-gapped. Slightly different plugs but they should perform similar.

 

UPDATE: Incase anyone was curious.

So, the car is up and running again.
I ended up borescoping the cylinders and could detect no damage to the piston head or cylinder walls. I then used a hanger and double sided tape and couldn't find any chunks of metal.
I ran a compression test and cylinder two held a perfect 215psi.
I bought a brand new set of NGK BKR9EIX plugs and left them at the factory gapping, which was about .025-.026.

I also installed an AEM UEGO Wideband. This is what puzzles me.. I'm getting a perfect 14.7 reading on idle/cruising, and just a tad rich on WOT before boost (10-10.3). Once I hit past 6k RPMs, I get a solid 11.4 or so reading.

So, although the car runs better than ever, it remains a mystery as to what happened to my first spark plug. Whether it was a bad plug or the fact that it wasn't torqued down tight enough, I may never know..

 

Guess it could have been a defective plug? Thanks, for the update. Good luck!