Spark Plug Torque
#11
this has to do with static vs kinetic friction but im not sure that the difference between the two in this case is significant to say that it wouldnt be in the ballpark.
also this would render the idea of re-torquing something useless. for instance, when you install a cylinder head with a two step tq sequence. this assumes that the second step is within the range of force required to break the bolt/nut into motion. if its outside that range them im wrong. huh...just learned something
also this would render the idea of re-torquing something useless. for instance, when you install a cylinder head with a two step tq sequence. this assumes that the second step is within the range of force required to break the bolt/nut into motion. if its outside that range them im wrong. huh...just learned something
#12
Not sure what crack you guys are smoking but the Helms calls for 18 ft/lbs of torque for the spark plugs.
I've been doing mine at 18 and have had no issues. (Even with 10psi of boost and many track days)
Please do not overtorque! A couple of locals have damaged their head and eventually destroyed the engine because of this.
I recommend fresh plugs yearly (EDIT: FOR COPPER ONES). In my experience, the electrode wears out so your gap will increase. This will obviously cause your ignition to not be ideal.
I've been doing mine at 18 and have had no issues. (Even with 10psi of boost and many track days)
Please do not overtorque! A couple of locals have damaged their head and eventually destroyed the engine because of this.
I recommend fresh plugs yearly (EDIT: FOR COPPER ONES). In my experience, the electrode wears out so your gap will increase. This will obviously cause your ignition to not be ideal.
#13
Registered User
I changed my plugs a couple of weeks ago and used the Honda service manual 2000-2007 recommended 18ft/lbs of torque. My torque wrench has the click/bar break when it reaches 18ft/lbs. Moving it steadily but slow is the key.
I used the NGK PFR7G-11S #7772 plugs that were all pre-gapped to approximately 0.043". I was surprised to see that they were gapped to the max as new. Is that what others have found?
I used the NGK PFR7G-11S #7772 plugs that were all pre-gapped to approximately 0.043". I was surprised to see that they were gapped to the max as new. Is that what others have found?
#15
Moderator
#16
Not sure what crack you guys are smoking but the Helms calls for 18 ft/lbs of torque for the spark plugs.
I've been doing mine at 18 about 5 times now on my car and have had no issues. (Even with 10psi of boost and many track days)
Please do not overtorque! A couple of locals have damaged their head and eventually destroyed the engine because of this.
I recommend fresh plugs yearly. In my experience, the electrode wears out (a bit less on Iridium) so your gap will increase. This will obviously cause your ignition to not be ideal.
I've been doing mine at 18 about 5 times now on my car and have had no issues. (Even with 10psi of boost and many track days)
Please do not overtorque! A couple of locals have damaged their head and eventually destroyed the engine because of this.
I recommend fresh plugs yearly. In my experience, the electrode wears out (a bit less on Iridium) so your gap will increase. This will obviously cause your ignition to not be ideal.
#19
Just do what the factory says...like 100k miles. I don't see any point in trying to fix something that isn't broken, especially if it could end in a destroyed engine. The factory isn't going to say 100k miles and then not have it last as long. If anything they are going to say 100k on an item that can actually last 200k.
My dad ran his plugs 270k on his van and they were fine lol, you guys are obsessing too much.
My dad ran his plugs 270k on his van and they were fine lol, you guys are obsessing too much.
#20
Registered User
I had a first hand experience when a friend of mine tried to tighten the plugs to 25lb in his ap1, he ended up breaking the spark plug thread and heaving it get stuck inside cyl #4 plug hole. Had to remove the head to get it out, so dont over torque.
looked something like this
looked something like this