Helms describes the replacement of valve springs, retainers and keepers within the cylinder head section and shows the head being removed. It seems to me that this could be done without removing the head. Has anyone done it this way?

Do I really need the special tools required?

 

yes,

You need to make some tools to hold the engine position, to put compressed air through the spark plug hole, and to push down on the retainers.

the trick is that you put the piston at TDC and use compressed air to hold the valves. having the piston at TDC saves you if the air supply is interrupted. Stuff all the oil drain holes with rag so you dont loose any collets into the sump.

Good luck.

 

I'm a skeptic. Have you personally pulled this off or is it an idea that "just might work". How much air pressure would it take to keep the small surface area of an intake valve firmly seated. I'm not flaming. I just would like some more detailed information/confirmation. Thanks.

 

I have personally pulled this off. Not that hard just have to be patient. Airing up the cylinder is the part where you have to have a good compressor to supply enough air volume to hold the valve up. I wouldn't use a small tank compressor. And if you do loose air the valve usually stops at the valve seal.

 

Hotrod2000,

I have done this on several types of engines. I use 80 psi workshop pressure. I made up a tube rail which bolts fore/aft to the top of the head and used a lever which clips under and slides alond the rail. The lever uses a drop link with a ring that pushes on the retainer.

One trick is to knock the retainers with a soft hammer before putting the piston to TDC as sometime the collets are jammed into the retainer and dont release when pushing down on the retainer.

You need to have a good method of stopping the engine rotating as you generally dont get it exactly on TDC and the air pressure can spin the engine around.

The early Renaults used to have a tool that went in through the spark plug hole. It used an hook like and umbrella handle that you used to hold the valve. You adjusted the position of the hook then locked it on place with a lock screw which was in the outer part of the tool that threaded into the plug hole. These cars only had 2 valves and bigger spark plug holes so it was easy to get the tool into place.

Chris.

 

It can be done. You have to have a spring compressor that clears the head casting, as well as a leakdown tester to pressurize the cylinder. (or some other way to connect air to the spark plug hole)

 

Thanks for the input. We'll use MyBad's car as the test mule and give this a try. We'll post the results to help others. I have no problem trying new methods on someone elses engine.

 

Thanks for volunteering my car as the "mule."

Everyone else, thanks for your posts. I'm not sure I follow everything offered but HOTRODS2000 will jump in and try it. I'll probably get a new engine out of him.

 

Can anyone tell me where to get the compressed air adaptor???

 

A leakdown tester comes with the neccessary adapter