Hi S2KI'ers,

It's a shame this has to be my first post, but such is life sometimes. Got a 2003 yellow s2k (original owner Carlos), with a 2005 AP2 engine swap. About 96k on chassis, 58k on engine. Took it to Laguna this past Sunday after doing all the fluids and a valve adjustment. Misshifted and it looks like I spun a rod bearing. Also burnt 2 quarts of oil, and the oil was black afterwards. Originally thought it was the head, but valves seem to be fine and compression tests come out ok (155 psi average). Joey in South San Francisco has got it at the moment.

So right now, I'm looking at a couple of questions:

1. Rebuild engine vs. swap? What are the risks of either? A new engine is too much money. $9k quote from Honda.
2. How best to sell AP2 head / block if I do the swap?
3. How best to find a solid, used engine if I do the swap?

Currently contacting N1 and Blacktrax to check inventory. I'm a newb when it comes to cars, so bear with me. Thanks in advance everyone.

Jack

 

Compression is actually pretty bad; They It should be around 200-240psi depending on engine health. Service limit is 135psi I believe.

$9k is a bit high, Majestic Honda pricing is $3k for block and $2.8k for head. Whether or not they will actually ship it though is another story.

rebuild vs. swap... Probably simpler to do a swap. Get compression and leakdown numbers from whatever engine you plan to buy, or video proof that it runs ok, etc. Either way engine needs to come out of the car.

 

thats weird F22C's are not suppose to burn any oil. how bad did you misshift?

 

Thanks spets. Good advice, and thanks for the more appropriate compression range. What should the leak down numbers be like?

Will check Majestic Honda for more info on parts (Googled it. Is it the one out in Rhode Island?). http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/

And s2000maniac, that's true, it's usually the AP1s. I thought I got out of the gear fast (it was on a downshift), but is there such a thing as a not bad overrev?

 

"but is there such a thing as a not bad overrev?"

For an AP2...yes

 

Yes depending on speed and what gear you downshifted to.

 

Ok, update on this. Two options with follow-up questions:

1. 2007 engine with 63k for $2.5k. Not sure what needs to be done for conversion to drive-by-wire ($??).
2. 2003 engine with 55k for $2k. Need AP1 ECU ($100-150) and rework for the immobilization ($??).

Thoughts? And to preempt another AP1 vs. AP2 thread, it's not about which engine is better. It's a "what's cheaper to get a reliable setup into my car" question.

 

Much cheaper (and easier) to do the AP1 motor. I'll sell you an ECU for cheap.

 

thanks spectacle! realized that i actually have the original ecu so i'm good to go there. what's necessary from an immobilization standpoint?

 

Have to get the key matched to the ECU at the dealer.