S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Stall on idle

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Old Oct 13, 2012 | 08:40 PM
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Default Stall on idle

After searching on the forums for many hours. I can't seem to fix my idling issue. Every time I come to a complete stop the idle will drop down and stall. Even with the car in neutral. I can be rolling at 1mph and it wont stall, until I come to a complete stop. Also if I'm driving around and throw it into neutral and coast the rpm will drop really low but less likely to stall while moving. And sometimes my tachometer will read 800-900rpm but the feel is much closer to 200rpm.

So far what I've done:
1. Replaced the TPS.
2. Cleaned the IAC valve.
3. Cleaned the MAP connector and the sensor and also sprayed carb cleaner into where the sensor goes in.

About the car:
It's an 2000 AP1 with a Comptech SC. I first noticed the idle issue around the time I lost a bolt for the SC mount. It would drop down but never stall. The issue eventually just got worse and worse. Even after replacing the mount bolt.

I've read up on the issue but haven't found any definite solutions, but it seems to be a common s2k issue.
ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED. Driving around used to be fun, but the stalling every time I stop is a major inconvenience.
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 04:03 PM
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Did you reset the ECU after replacing sensors? OBDII stores values for long and short term fuel trim. Most of the cases I have seen with "stop-stall" were the result of SFFT/LTFT imbalance of some type. Temperature change is the biggest culprit.

Assuming you have already pulled any set or pending codes, disconnect the battery for 10 minutes, reconnect, and see if the problem still exists...

Utah
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Utah S2K
Did you reset the ECU after replacing sensors? OBDII stores values for long and short term fuel trim. Most of the cases I have seen with "stop-stall" were the result of SFFT/LTFT imbalance of some type. Temperature change is the biggest culprit.

Assuming you have already pulled any set or pending codes, disconnect the battery for 10 minutes, reconnect, and see if the problem still exists...

Utah
i dont think that will fix it, you can reset the fuse properly that will RESET EVERYTHING. you need to pull a fuse to reset the ecu. and when you start the car you will need to gas it and hold it at 3k and that will set your cold start rpm. the rpms will drop till near 0 but dont mess with the gas to keep it from stalling. this is how the car learns.
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 11:40 PM
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I've reset the ECU by pulling the fuse. I haven't noticed a change, and the issue still persists.
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 08:40 PM
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Any other ideas?
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 08:58 PM
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Knock sensor? Map sensor needs to be replaced?
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 08:59 PM
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Header oxygen sensor? I would recommend putting a scanner on the car and see if your getting the appropriate reading to all these sensors.
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by sto405
Header oxygen sensor? I would recommend putting a scanner on the car and see if your getting the appropriate reading to all these sensors.
Can I measure the sensors with a multimeter?
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Old Oct 17, 2012 | 06:35 PM
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Hmm, not sure as i have never tried. I have a accutron cp9580 was about $135 new on eBay and I gives you live readings on all the sensors in real time.
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 08:44 AM
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I had similar idling issue as you do. I cleaned the IAC and MAP initially with no improvements. The problem was solved after I cleaned the throttle body.
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