Stalling and Baro Sensor
In the summer months, as of recent years, my car seems to stall on occasion when idling. In the last month or so, the problem has gotten worse. The car will stall consistantly if I dont heel the gas all the time when stopping. Finnally I got a CEL code. It was...
1 - 3 BAROMETRIC PRESSURE (BARO) SENSOR
I have seen posts by others describing this problem, but no one ever mentions a CEL reading the baro sensor.
The problem as I can tell only occurs during hot days and is made worse by using the AC. Sometimes the car wont stall, but holds a very very low RPM. The only thing not stock about my car is a lighter weight flywheel. I'm not sure if that would have anything to do with it.
1 - 3 BAROMETRIC PRESSURE (BARO) SENSOR
I have seen posts by others describing this problem, but no one ever mentions a CEL reading the baro sensor.
The problem as I can tell only occurs during hot days and is made worse by using the AC. Sometimes the car wont stall, but holds a very very low RPM. The only thing not stock about my car is a lighter weight flywheel. I'm not sure if that would have anything to do with it.
All the diagnostics involve resetting the ECU, then doing a couple of other things. Some involve the ELD (electronic load detector). Some involve replacing the ECU (worst case).
You would be wise to NOT "heel" the gas and just let it do what it's going to do. By giving it gas, you may be fooling the system into doing things it would not normally do, thereby giving you indications that something may be wrong when there isn't.
I suggest you do at least the first step in all the BARO diagnostics and reset the ECU and let it begin to learn all over again, but from now on, DON'T give it any gas to keep it from going to a low idle or even dying. If it doesn't learn after a few days of this, then you may be looking at replacing some pretty expensive components.
You would be wise to NOT "heel" the gas and just let it do what it's going to do. By giving it gas, you may be fooling the system into doing things it would not normally do, thereby giving you indications that something may be wrong when there isn't.
I suggest you do at least the first step in all the BARO diagnostics and reset the ECU and let it begin to learn all over again, but from now on, DON'T give it any gas to keep it from going to a low idle or even dying. If it doesn't learn after a few days of this, then you may be looking at replacing some pretty expensive components.
Well, i just reset my ecu and was trying to get the CEL to come back. It seems to be working right now. I'll have to drive it arround a little first. I do however do a whole lot of heel toe even just on the street (force of habit), so maybe I am confusing the system.
Yes, it's built in to the PCM.
The common causes for Baro codes are bad wiring connections to an ESM or MAP sensor clamp, e-manage or VAFC piggyback controllers.
The settings made on a VAFC or E-manage can also cause BARO DTC's.
The common causes for Baro codes are bad wiring connections to an ESM or MAP sensor clamp, e-manage or VAFC piggyback controllers.
The settings made on a VAFC or E-manage can also cause BARO DTC's.
Baro's inside the ECU isn't it?
Yes, it's built in to the PCM.
The common causes for Baro codes are bad wiring connections to an ESM or MAP sensor clamp, e-manage or VAFC piggyback controllers.
The settings made on a VAFC or E-manage can also cause BARO DTC's.
The settings made on a VAFC or E-manage can also cause BARO DTC's.
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Originally Posted by elemental79,Jul 1 2006, 05:49 PM
Well, i just reset my ecu and was trying to get the CEL to come back. It seems to be working right now. I'll have to drive it arround a little first. I do however do a whole lot of heel toe even just on the street (force of habit), so maybe I am confusing the system.
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