S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Stripped out oil pan threads

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Old Oct 28, 2011 | 09:26 PM
  #11  
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Tap and die set and you could do it yourself if you're into that sorta thing.

But, $50 bucks to get it retapped sounds pretty good too.
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Old Nov 3, 2011 | 09:39 AM
  #12  
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Thanks guys I already bought another pan. If I was going to retap it I'd take it off anyway. May as well just replace it. I'm sure it could be tapped with it on the car but I'm paranoid and just keep thinking about a stray sliver of aluminum getting sucked in and chewing up one of my cylinder walls. I'm probably more than safe on this; but hey better safe then sorry . Lesson learned though, proper torque and new washers every change lol
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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 09:25 AM
  #13  
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I was just looking at how they do the Time-sert repair, and didnt realize you have to take a drill to it. Is it possible to do this with the pan on the car? Metal shavings being flung up into the block doesnt really sound to fun...
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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 01:23 PM
  #14  
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Don't be a girl heli coil the plug. It will take 30 min if you have a steady hand, run the oil you drain back through the motor by pouring it back in the top and leaving the drain plug open to flush any bits out.

If you're super crazy waist a qt of new oil and do the same. Fill the car with oil with the old filter on, start it, warm it up, change the filter.
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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 01:32 PM
  #15  
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man up and use this as an excuse to buy an oil pan with a baffle
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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 08:17 PM
  #16  
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^^^ I wish I was thinking like that when I had to replace my pan. Then again, I was on a budget and needed my car 3 days after ordering the pan.
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 04:01 PM
  #17  
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Anyone who has problems inserting an oil drain plug without over torquing and stripping the threads is a prime candidate for a Fumoto valve. Of course then you'd have to remember to shut it off when done without using a cheater pipe and break it off.
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Old Nov 8, 2011 | 09:33 AM
  #18  
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I work at Honda and if a car comes in and we cant torque the drain plug then we notify the customer that they need an over-sized drain plug and a time-sert we dont charge then though. I havnt heard of them ever charging for one at honda.
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Old Feb 3, 2013 | 11:29 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by dedonderosa
Ive seen guys use this and do the whole oil change without jacking up the car and getting underneith.





I actually used one of these recently, with good success, to remove most of the oil in my AP2... I got over 4 quarts out by sucking through the dip stick tube hole. It made changing my oil pan a far less messy affair, I don't think I'd use this regularly but it definitely helped me out with my dilemma.

I used a Mityvac that I picked up on Amazon for $85

http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7201-F.../dp/B0002SR7TC
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Old Feb 3, 2013 | 06:18 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by s2klariat
Welp I'll go ahead and be the poster child for idiots who over torqued the drain plug on the oil pan. 5,000 miles, no leaks or signs of damage. Pull the plug today to do a change and the threads came with it. Can't get the plug back in either. SOOOOOOO..... I'm in the market for another oil pan. Long story short kids... TORQUE TO SPEC AND REPLACE CRUSH WASHER EVERY TIME!
Dont go to crazy. Like people have mentioned you can easily retap and use a larger drainplug. It would be 10x stronger if you can heli-coil or Keen-cert(very difficult with a thru hole) the plug but a simple re-tap would do you. Flush out with the old oil and buy a larger plug.
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