Welp I'll go ahead and be the poster child for idiots who over torqued the drain plug on the oil pan. 5,000 miles, no leaks or signs of damage. Pull the plug today to do a change and the threads came with it. Can't get the plug back in either. SOOOOOOO..... I'm in the market for another oil pan. Long story short kids... TORQUE TO SPEC AND REPLACE CRUSH WASHER EVERY TIME!

 

Sorry to hear that, man. The same thing happened to me shortly after buying my AP2. I was able to get by for a few months with a self-tapping screw until I had the pan replaced.

 

Happened to me too. My first oil change on my S But I got a good deal on an oil pan and it took me a good 6 hours of prep and then work to R&R it. (I was being super cautious while prying it off, and then I had to take it off a second time because I didn't clean it well enough before applying HondaBond. fail)

 

That's why I got myself one of these.
http://www.qwikvalve.com/?gclid=CKDj...FZFV7AodDFoGDg

 

Two words:
Fumoto Valve

 

damn I hope mine is ok.... you scared me now

 

i think factory torque is something like 30.......not much for sure! ive seen them stripped-out like over 100x

 

Ive seen guys use this and do the whole oil change without jacking up the car and getting underneith.

 

My uncle did this in his Odyssey van and he took it to the dealer. They charged him 1/2 hour of labor (about $50) and re-tapped the pan for him. Saved him from having to installing a new pan!

 

Well you could try Time-Sert. Works well (in my opinion better than helicoil). I've replaced several helicoil fixes gone bad with time serts. Never had a time-sert fail on me. But if a dealer can do it for 50 dollars it's almost worth it to just let them take care of it.