I use a reliable torque wrench at 14 lbft. On the advice of Billman at the last dragon event, he will cinch the bolt till snug (<14lbft) then final torque with torque wrench. It helped me as i used to adjust the clearance, give it a slight tightening, but then torque down to 14 and the adjustment would move out of spec.
Don't go overtorquing these as it would be a very bad day to destroy the threads.

its not a hard job to do, just take your time. #4 is a pain to get to near the heat shield. small hands and angled feeler gauges help.

darcy

 

A 1/4" torque wrench will typically use inch/lbs, and give the low range accuracy needed for this job.

A tool you will use so rarely, I couldn't justify the expense of something snapon grade. I have a set of Harbor Freight torque wrenches, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2. I validated their calibration using a tape measure and luggage scale, so I'm confident they work properly.

Set wrench to some value near center of its range. Place square end of wrench in bench vise. Measure from center of square end to handle where luggage scale is attached. Slowly pull scale until wrench clicks. Look at scale to get max weight from pull. Multiple weight from scale by tape measure reading (in feet, note, 1' 6" is not 1.6 feet!, Or in inches if its inch/lb scale). Make sure measured lb/ft value equals wrench lb/ft setting.

If you make wrench vertical in vice, so that luggage scale pull is sideways (not up), your results are slightly more accurate since weight of wrench itself isn't part of the reading.

 

Geeze. I just snug them up by feel. I do think it is a good idea to check the valve clearance after you have it torqued just to be sure it didn't move.