noahw526

As the title says, i have just pulled an F20c from a totaled S2000 that i have been hassling a local guy for ever to sell me and he finally did!

The engine has 37K miles on it and i am swapping it into my Original 2000 Silverstone S2000 (With 255k Miles) that Ive had for years so i can drive it for the rest of my life lol

The car i pulled it from had been sitting for 2+ years, and i want to know you guys opinion on what i should replace/renew while ive already got it out, and want to put it in the right way.

The engine mounts are a must... SHOULD I GO WITH MEGAN 70A MOUNTS FOR DAILY DRIVING ???
The thermostat should be replaced while its easy with an OEM one.. i think at least
Im going to swap the old AP1 clutch out, so that i dont have the AP1 clutch buzz. SHOULD I KEEP THE OEM THROW OUT BEARING ??? OLD COULD IT GO BAD CAUSE THE CAR SAT FOR 2+ YEARS???
replace the pilot bearing because its cheap and i have it apart already
Some of the top vaccum hoses because they look faded and not fresh.

So is there anything else that you would suggest i should do before i install it ???

T
HANKS IN ADVANCE !

twohoos

Congrats on the nice find. Now, don't get cute with aftermarket goodies, and don't cut corners.

Obviously, clean/inspect everything you can, both on the motor and in the engine bay.
Use only new OE engine and trans mounts.
Get a new accessory (serpentine) belt.
Buy/make a ground strap to run from the back of the cylinder head (the infamous G101) to the chassis ground at the battery. Attach to G101 before install. G101 is the only ground source for the ECU (and maybe dash?) and can get flaky.

Hope it works out.

noahw526

Thanks for the reply!

Im very excited about the swap, and am defiantly not cutting corners!

Im looking into MEGAN 70A MOUNTS for the engine, i hear they are a nice upgrade and dont come with the vibrations. CAN ANYONE COMMENT ON THIS ???
Yup, new Belt.
and ill look into that ground and see what i can do!

manystyles

I wouldn't not go aftermarket engine/trans mount. Only ones I'd suggest are either OEM or Mugen / Spoon, which can be bought cheap through RHDJapan.

Again, anything that can be replaced "while you're in there" should.

Car Analogy

I third the recommendation to go with oem mounts. They aren't that difficult to replace later, so if your stock ones are still intact, just reuse them. Later if they go bad you can replace then. For dd, aftermarket motor mounts will add an unpleasant level of harshness, and not in a good way. A feeling of cheapness.

What you want is an Engine Torque Damper. It will restrict engine movement, and improve shifter feel, and preserve the expensive stock mounts for longer service life, without adding geeling of cheapness.

The engine has been sitting. Obviously change the oil. I would also remove plugs and inspect cylinder walls with a boroscope or inspection camera. Remove valve cover and inspect cams and top end parts for corrosion. Might as well adjust valves while you are in there.

noahw526

Thanks for the input, ill have to check the prices on the OEM, but if i remember right they are within 40-80$ of each other (OEM, Spoon, Mugen)

Yes, the mounts on the new motor are shot, but then again my old mounts that seem fine as is, have 253K miles on them lol so ?? yea i might look into the Damper, and use the ones i have!

I changed the oil before i started the car to make sure it ran correctly, but yes i will again of course haha

The cams have a small amount of rust on them, think this is a big problem ?

daileyboy81

I was just in a similar situation as you, swapping a 50k mile f22 into my AP1.

A couple things I inspected or replaced before dropping it in:

REAR MAIN SEAL - check for any signs of wear, not seating right, or leaks. (this is what ultimately killed my F20.. lost too much oil from a bad leak and it oil starved on the track.)
Make sure you inspect or get new rad hoses. They aren't fun to do with the motor in.
I have innovative motor mounts (personal choice)
Valve cover seals
Carefully inspect the wiring harness while it's all easy to access.
TCT
Starter
AP2 retainers
And of course, might as well change the clutch (I run oem/ACT combo for a firmer pedal.)

Chuck S

OK, my caution to hand crank the engine several revolutions is now moot.

Sounds like the engine is already in your old car?

-- Chuck

noahw526

Thank you for the good info!

Ill check the rear main seal, the engine has 37K on it, and is very clean with no signs of leaks. But yes i will check that for sure!

Im still in debate about the main RAD hoses, they arent in bad shape, but if the cost isnt bad ill go ahead and replace them.

STARTER!!! This is something ive been thinking about, my original AP1 has the slight grind ever so often, is there a way i can take it out and re Lube it before i install the engine to help with this ?????

I thought about the retainers, but i think ill just check them for any pitting ETC and go from there. My other AP1 has 253K on the original retainers, so if i take car of it the same i think they should be just fine with the correct valve adjustments ETC

Yes, i plan to swap out the clutch disk to get rid of the AP1 Clutch buzz..

noahw526

Well i changed the oil before i yanked the engine out of the old car, and started it while it was still in, just to make sure it ran and wasnt making any funny noises or anything.