S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Swapping Low Mileage Engine !! How should i prep before install ???

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Old Jun 6, 2018 | 04:49 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by noahw526
I thought about the retainers, but i think ill just check them for any pitting ETC and go from there. My other AP1 has 253K on the original retainers, so if i take car of it the same i think they should be just fine with the correct valve adjustments ETC
Yes, if you treat it right you should be able to run AP1 retainers for the life of the car! Just watch them for signs of going bad.

What year is the NEW/used engine? If it's early '02 or prior I would check the engine number(NOT VIN) for there was a switch over to the 4way banjo bolts vs. 2 way. More oil squirting up on the bottom of the pistons.

Oh and since it's out of the car take every accessory off the car and scrub the aluminum with a wire brush to get rid of any white oxidation. Give it a good wash/scrub and think about either putting a coat of high temp matte clear or possibly black to dress up the block and prevent future oxidation. Wish I did this with my '02 replacement into my '00.

ACT Pressure Plate & OEM disk with NEW OEM TO bearing is a MUST in my book.
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Old Jun 6, 2018 | 05:15 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Pinky
Yes, if you treat it right you should be able to run AP1 retainers for the life of the car! Just watch them for signs of going bad.

What year is the NEW/used engine? If it's early '02 or prior I would check the engine number(NOT VIN) for there was a switch over to the 4way banjo bolts vs. 2 way. More oil squirting up on the bottom of the pistons.

Oh and since it's out of the car take every accessory off the car and scrub the aluminum with a wire brush to get rid of any white oxidation. Give it a good wash/scrub and think about either putting a coat of high temp matte clear or possibly black to dress up the block and prevent future oxidation. Wish I did this with my '02 replacement into my '00.

ACT Pressure Plate & OEM disk with NEW OEM TO bearing is a MUST in my book.
The engine is from an 2002 AP1, ive not heard about what you talking about... So im glad you told me. SO its a 2002 going into a 2000... So should i have the problem your speaking of????
^^^^^ good info!!!

I plan to scrub it down really nice, but didnt think about painting it. Might have to ponder on that one !

Can i ask why the ACT Pressure Plate ? I plan to go with a OEM disk, but would you recommend where to get one? Ebay cheaper for the same Exedy Disk?

and about the Throw out bearing... damn new OEM ones cost around 200$ ????

See the link below for one off ebay, Says is HONDA OEM but its made by " NACHI " So is this the OEM brand maybe ??

Ebay Throw Out Bearing
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Old Jun 6, 2018 | 06:59 AM
  #13  
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Order a OEM honda throw out bearing, usually the other knock offs fail early. Also order from hondapartsnow.com or something i wouldnt trust ebay
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Old Jun 6, 2018 | 11:24 AM
  #14  
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DO NOT use an exedy so called oem disk. Its not oem, and it sucks, will last maybe 20k milrs, then a spring will fall out. They cleverly call their disk oem, trying to lure people into thinking they are the oem manufacturer. They're not, its deceptive marketing.

There was a recent thread where a guys starter died, and he disassembled, cleaned and lubed it, and now its working fine again. Starter is not cheap. I would just do what he did and clean it up and lube it. Look for his thread.
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Old Jun 6, 2018 | 01:29 PM
  #15  
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Check out https://hardtopguy.com/store/234.html Or something else on his site.

Not much experience with the specifics surrounding the TO Bearing and re-using or using non-OEM.

Look up "Banjo Bolts" crossover engine number or something like that! It's not necessarily a PROBLEM but they changed it for a reason! It should be VERY easy to get done while engine is out of the car.

DON'T USE THE Exedy garbage.
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Old Jun 6, 2018 | 02:52 PM
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Good suggestions. I know it's been said many times but worth re-iterating - Exedy do not make oem clutches for the s2000. FCC (Fuji Chemical Company) manufacture them.
Exedy clutch components for the S2000 (as stated above) are garbage - unless perhaps you go into the multi-plate carbon units however they cost a few thousand $.
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Old Jun 7, 2018 | 04:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Car Analogy
DO NOT use an exedy so called oem disk. Its not oem, and it sucks, will last maybe 20k milrs, then a spring will fall out. They cleverly call their disk oem, trying to lure people into thinking they are the oem manufacturer. They're not, its deceptive marketing.

There was a recent thread where a guys starter died, and he disassembled, cleaned and lubed it, and now its working fine again. Starter is not cheap. I would just do what he did and clean it up and lube it. Look for his thread.
I gotcha, so is there a disk you would recommend ? Other than a True OEM one ordered from Honda ?

Yea i saw that thread and will check it out for my starter!

Originally Posted by Pinky
Check out https://hardtopguy.com/store/234.html Or something else on his site.

Not much experience with the specifics surrounding the TO Bearing and re-using or using non-OEM.

Look up "Banjo Bolts" crossover engine number or something like that! It's not necessarily a PROBLEM but they changed it for a reason! It should be VERY easy to get done while engine is out of the car.

DON'T USE THE Exedy garbage.
Yea, so at the Moment i dont have $850+ to spend on that clutch package, really i think it looks like i will be going with a ACT Pressure plate, and a OEM disk and OEM TO Bearing.

Here is my : VIN JHMAP11482T002764

I will try and cross reference it, and see what i can come up with!


Originally Posted by clio
Good suggestions. I know it's been said many times but worth re-iterating - Exedy do not make oem clutches for the s2000. FCC (Fuji Chemical Company) manufacture them.
Exedy clutch components for the S2000 (as stated above) are garbage - unless perhaps you go into the multi-plate carbon units however they cost a few thousand $.
Thank you guys for helping me out, i want to do this the right way the first time, as im not a fan of taking the Transmission out.... Even though after the 3rd time ive gotten pretty good at it lol
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Old Jun 7, 2018 | 07:09 PM
  #18  
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Get Honda urea grease. Make sure you know parts to grease and how much to use. Read the diys on how to do clutch job. A few gotchas with things like difficult to acces upper starter bolt, and long and short trans bellhousing mounting bolts, which you do want to mix up (use short bolt in wrong hole, strip threads. Long bolt in wrong hole, crack block!)

The parts you're planning to use are the go to recommendations. Only thing to add is a lightweight flywheel.
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Old Jun 8, 2018 | 06:19 AM
  #19  
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Not VIN...........ENGINE #. If you are after 1025230 you likely have it..........likely but after about another 50 engines is almost a guarantee it has the new bolts.

Quoting from Billman250.
Where is it? - On the engine block by the cylinder head, by the front left corner of the valve cover. It is also on a large white sticker on the timing cover. 50/50 shot of reading it there. If your car is clean you should be able to read it off the timing cover.

How do I read it? It will read from front to back: F20C1-10xxxxx
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Old Jun 8, 2018 | 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Car Analogy
Get Honda urea grease. Make sure you know parts to grease and how much to use. Read the diys on how to do clutch job. A few gotchas with things like difficult to acces upper starter bolt, and long and short trans bellhousing mounting bolts, which you do want to mix up (use short bolt in wrong hole, strip threads. Long bolt in wrong hole, crack block!)

The parts you're planning to use are the go to recommendations. Only thing to add is a lightweight flywheel.
Yea i have done 3 successful clutch jobs and ive done my studying on what/what not to grease!

Yea, i have come into the bolt length problem before, thats why after the first clutch job i started laying out every single little peice i took off out on a table. In the Exact order i took them out, and writing everything down as i go!

Thanks!

Originally Posted by Pinky
Not VIN...........ENGINE #. If you are after 1025230 you likely have it..........likely but after about another 50 engines is almost a guarantee it has the new bolts.

Quoting from Billman250.
Where is it? - On the engine block by the cylinder head, by the front left corner of the valve cover. It is also on a large white sticker on the timing cover. 50/50 shot of reading it there. If your car is clean you should be able to read it off the timing cover.

How do I read it? It will read from front to back: F20C1-10xxxxx
Gotcha, well i will deff check that out and see what i can come up with!
Thanks!
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