switch to syntetic? 100k on ap1
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Urbandk and slipstream are both correct.
synthetic oil can leak more specifically for the reason you stated.
on the other hand, you should switch over to synthetic anyways because the benefits of having a smoother rotating assembly much outweights the downfall of maybe losing a little more oil. and as slipstream stated, mileage doesn't really matter, only the condition of your engine presently matters. so make the switch and go from there. if it does leak, then go back and switch the seals if you want but always stay with synthetic.
synthetic oil can leak more specifically for the reason you stated.
on the other hand, you should switch over to synthetic anyways because the benefits of having a smoother rotating assembly much outweights the downfall of maybe losing a little more oil. and as slipstream stated, mileage doesn't really matter, only the condition of your engine presently matters. so make the switch and go from there. if it does leak, then go back and switch the seals if you want but always stay with synthetic.
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From: jacksonville florida
urban_dk is right
truth about synthetic oil........
all it is is the same oil as conventional with all the odd size molecules pulled out. they use an eletronic process to separate the molecules and leave only the smallest ones so that they form an even seal over the surface they are lubricating. so in reference to that if you are leaking or burning oil, smaller molecules will burn faster and leak faster. just the .02 cents the valvoline rep told me last weak when they gave my store a demo on theyre oil products.
truth about synthetic oil........
all it is is the same oil as conventional with all the odd size molecules pulled out. they use an eletronic process to separate the molecules and leave only the smallest ones so that they form an even seal over the surface they are lubricating. so in reference to that if you are leaking or burning oil, smaller molecules will burn faster and leak faster. just the .02 cents the valvoline rep told me last weak when they gave my store a demo on theyre oil products.
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This is one for the ages.
Which "synthetic" are you talking about? Specifically Group I, II, II+ and III type mineral base oil stocks or fully synthetic?
They must use some pretty cool magnets...Seriously. I have to hand pick out my chiral molecules.
Synthetics used to have problems with seal swelling, in 1980. If you are talking about folding and unfolding 3-dimensional structure, yes, that is a benefit of synthetics and VI improvers, not a drawback.
Which "synthetic" are you talking about? Specifically Group I, II, II+ and III type mineral base oil stocks or fully synthetic?
They must use some pretty cool magnets...Seriously. I have to hand pick out my chiral molecules.
Synthetics used to have problems with seal swelling, in 1980. If you are talking about folding and unfolding 3-dimensional structure, yes, that is a benefit of synthetics and VI improvers, not a drawback.
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Originally Posted by SupaStar,Apr 23 2009, 09:33 AM
Are you the dude from preludezone? Congrats on the S pick up now go intro yourself in the Northeast section in ny-metro ,oh I'm mr.lube from preludezone back in the days
These posts are all very informative, and it looks like I'm leaning towards making the switch.
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Originally Posted by SupaStar,Apr 23 2009, 01:03 PM
Yea make the switch 9 out of 10 are using syn, we have a drive in metro this sunday come out let me check out that ap1
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From: BRONX
intro your self in https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showforum=61
Bunch of cool people, a few hard asses. but goodshit see ya around
Bunch of cool people, a few hard asses. but goodshit see ya around
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Originally Posted by slipstream444,Apr 22 2009, 05:04 PM
NOT agreed - there's nothing in modern synthetics that will cause it to "slip" past anything more than conventional oil. That's one of the oldest and most inaccurate wives tales out there.
It has been perpetuated from the very early days of synthetic oils when early Mobil 1 destroyed more engines than it protected. The reason that Mazda still states NOT to use synthetic oil in its rotary engines is due to what Mobil 1 did to early rotary engines - as in destroyed them. The warranty and lawsuit mess that followed almost stopped the production of rotary engines in the '70s.
And where did you get your arbitrary 70,000 mile number from? I'd love to see the data that brought forward that swag. Miles are an arbitrary and almost meaningless number in point of fact. The measure that matters is your average RPMs over a given measure of use (per mile, or per hour if you have a Hobbs meter). If your car sees a lot of high RPM use frequently - 3,000 miles is a lot more use than a car that doesn't. There's a HUGE difference between the stresses at 6,000 RPM and at 9,000 RPM. Frankly, that's one of the best reasons to use a QUALITY synthetic oil in the S2000 - regardless of the mileage.
Another thing: "synthetic" oil covers so much territory that the only way you could make a more general statement is by simply saying "oil".
There are several types (Grp III HC, Grp IV, Grp V), and levels of quality with regard to synthetic oils, all with their benefits and some drawbacks (mostly cost based). You need to define what you're wanting the oil to do for you over conventional oil.
Do you want less wear? If yes, then you want to use Amsoil, Redline or the new Castrol Edge. Do you want a longer drain interval? If yes, then you'll want to use Amsoil or Redline for the longest drain intervals. Castrol Edge and Mobil 1 EP offer up to 15,000 mile drain intervals (about 5k-10k less than Redline and Amsoil). Are you looking for a less volatile oil? Then Amsoil or Redline 10W30 is the way to go. Are you looking for low cost? Forget about it!
Do you just want to spend you money with no real benefit over conventional oil? standard Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Lucas, chain store synthetic oil... just because it's synthetic does not make it better.
It has been perpetuated from the very early days of synthetic oils when early Mobil 1 destroyed more engines than it protected. The reason that Mazda still states NOT to use synthetic oil in its rotary engines is due to what Mobil 1 did to early rotary engines - as in destroyed them. The warranty and lawsuit mess that followed almost stopped the production of rotary engines in the '70s.
And where did you get your arbitrary 70,000 mile number from? I'd love to see the data that brought forward that swag. Miles are an arbitrary and almost meaningless number in point of fact. The measure that matters is your average RPMs over a given measure of use (per mile, or per hour if you have a Hobbs meter). If your car sees a lot of high RPM use frequently - 3,000 miles is a lot more use than a car that doesn't. There's a HUGE difference between the stresses at 6,000 RPM and at 9,000 RPM. Frankly, that's one of the best reasons to use a QUALITY synthetic oil in the S2000 - regardless of the mileage.
Another thing: "synthetic" oil covers so much territory that the only way you could make a more general statement is by simply saying "oil".
There are several types (Grp III HC, Grp IV, Grp V), and levels of quality with regard to synthetic oils, all with their benefits and some drawbacks (mostly cost based). You need to define what you're wanting the oil to do for you over conventional oil.
Do you want less wear? If yes, then you want to use Amsoil, Redline or the new Castrol Edge. Do you want a longer drain interval? If yes, then you'll want to use Amsoil or Redline for the longest drain intervals. Castrol Edge and Mobil 1 EP offer up to 15,000 mile drain intervals (about 5k-10k less than Redline and Amsoil). Are you looking for a less volatile oil? Then Amsoil or Redline 10W30 is the way to go. Are you looking for low cost? Forget about it!
Do you just want to spend you money with no real benefit over conventional oil? standard Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Lucas, chain store synthetic oil... just because it's synthetic does not make it better.
your the man
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