S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

TCT DIY - Replacement or repair

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Old 08-09-2010, 06:20 AM
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Very nice.

If you'd like to add an extremely easy way to get the tct out once the 2 bolts are removed, simply pry on it THROUGH the maintenence hole. Takes 0 effort
Old 08-09-2010, 07:47 AM
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Cool - I added the tip to the instructions.
Old 08-09-2010, 08:21 AM
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thank you!
Old 08-09-2010, 09:57 PM
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Its a very detailed DIY

But..

Saki GT Posted on Aug 9 2010, 05:51 AM
I think billman once stated that the TCT operates using an oil hydrolock, spring tension, and oil pressure, so three possible ways for a TCT to go bad, but the most common seems to be oil hydrolock failure as the worm gear and piston become too smooth to "catch" the oil - like a stone in a river it wears smooth with time.
There is IMO only 1 way for a TCT to go bad - the main piston stays in and it does not come out under oil pressure to remove the slack from the chain.
Without knowing why that piston stays in, keeping in mind there is nothing making it stay in, I would not change anything in a TCT.
The worm is IMO more like a ty-rap, it only allows movement one way once the oil pressure is gone, with oil pressure it floats to allow slack compensation when the engine warms up (the differences of expansion between alu block/head and steel chain/sprockets.)

Oh well...

Old 08-10-2010, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by SpitfireS,Aug 9 2010, 09:57 PM
Its a very detailed DIY

But..

Saki GT Posted on Aug 9 2010, 05:51 AM

There is IMO only 1 way for a TCT to go bad - the main piston stays in and it does not come out under oil pressure to remove the slack from the chain.
Without knowing why that piston stays in, keeping in mind there is nothing making it stay in, I would not change anything in a TCT.
The worm is IMO more like a ty-rap, it only allows movement one way once the oil pressure is gone, with oil pressure it floats to allow slack compensation when the engine warms up (the differences of expansion between alu block/head and steel chain/sprockets.)

Oh well...

The TCT failure mechanism is a bit perplexing. As you said, a lack of tension exerted by the piston would require some sort of binding. Given that the piston is propelled by oil pressure and a spring, logically I cannot understand the cause of the failures. I have yet to have the TCT problems, but I would welcome gremlin so I could investigate the issure further.
Old 08-10-2010, 07:58 AM
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The piston is retracting because of lack of traction/surface area contact with the worm gear.

Take a look at the worm gear of a bad TCT. You'll see that only 25% or less is contacting the piston.

Hence why sandblasting fixes it.
Old 08-11-2010, 05:08 AM
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If anyone has tried a sandblasted TCT, and it did not last, contact me.
Old 08-11-2010, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Saki GT,Aug 9 2010, 05:43 AM
Here is a photo of an old and new TCT (upside down though) - the new one has the pin in place to hold the piston back:



- the pin is part 13.

david1 states:



Thx Saki for these explanations
So if we have te remove this pin using the maintenance hole, why don't we remove the pin before inserting the new TCT in its place? It would be easier wouldn't it?
Old 08-11-2010, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Bingoig11,Aug 11 2010, 09:58 AM
why don't we remove the pin before inserting the new TCT in its place?
Because it will not retract, and you will break the timing chain.

THAT is why
Old 08-11-2010, 09:34 AM
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Just out of curiosity, when the tct is installed in the engine, where does the piston sit in relation to the timing chain? just wondering if the TC is behind or in front of the piston, acting like a guide of some sorts. not sure if that makes any sense.

I'm just curious because if, i mean "when" i have to replace it, i want to know where that piston goes when i remove that pin lol.

I don't have that tct noise yet. As far as I know, its still the original with about 30K miles now, still using dino oil.


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