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The piston puts pressure on the TC guide, not the TC directly. You could remove the cotter pin before installation if you removed the oil bolt and retracted the piston with the 5mm bolt instead. The cotter pin is there to save you time. Fwiw I think the shop manual actually states to retract the piston this way when you remove the piston but its an unnecessary step imo - just be careful as you remove it not to tip it and drop the parts on the floor.
Originally Posted by Saki GT,Aug 11 2010, 09:42 AM
The piston puts pressure on the TC guide, not the TC directly. You could remove the cotter pin before installation if you removed the oil bolt and retracted the piston with the 5mm bolt instead. I think the shop manual actually states to retract the piston this way when you remove the piston but its an unnecessary step imo.
Thanks. That makes sense. I wonder if the shop manual recommends removing the pin before installation because if its removed while installed in the engine, the piston would just release and smack against the guide. If you use the bolt, you can release the piston slowly until it sits against the guide? I dont know wtf i'm talking about lol..just trying to understand the whole thing
The piston is retracting because of lack of traction/surface area contact with the worm gear.
IOW: the piston is retracting against oil pressure?
IOW: there is - at some point - enough tension in/(or on?) the coast side of the timing chain to push the piston in against oil pressure?
Really?
That means IMO the valve train is driving the crank via the chain, no other way would the coast side of the chain have enough power to push a piston in against oil pressure.
Originally Posted by SpitfireS,Aug 11 2010, 11:16 AM
Billman250 Posted on Aug 10 2010, 04:58 PM
IOW: the piston is retracting against oil pressure?
IOW: there is - at some point - enough tension in/(or on?) the coast side of the timing chain to push the piston in against oil pressure?
Really?
That means IMO the valve train is driving the crank via the chain, no other way would the coast side of the chain have enough power to push a piston in against oil pressure.
Really?
The piston retracts due to not enough oil volume/pressure at idle. Notice it goes away once revved?
While there is merit to the worm gear getting galled and causing it to stick, this mainly happens due to not enough zddp in the oil. But is also caused by not enough oil in the setup.
As i have mentioned in another thread. Take the tensioner apart, restretch the springs a bit. Then your main repair is going to be to drill out the roughly .030 thou hole that is the oil feed to the tensioner. Drill it double in size to .060". It is the hole on the tensioner in between the orings, the feed hole coming from the head.
This will then provide enough oil to the setup for trouble free operation.
The oil jet determines how much oil gets to the worm gear, but if theres not enough supply then that jet is useless. So if you overdrill the hole the only symptom youd see if you overfed the unit would be a leak at the cover. Because the excess oil would have nowhere to go. Theres no worry of overpressurizing and overtensioning the chain.
I have a bunch of these tensioners out there now, and unlike the "sandblast" method, these actually work continuously and dont need to be reopened.
Also run the proper oil, and youll have less issues. I suggest valvoline 10/40 to everyone and they love it. All the problem cars (mostly on mobil1) have had ZERO issues since stopping by and having me mod the tensioner. Along with it they have all went away from BS oils and used good oil. So im sure that has helped also.
later dave
08-11-2010, 09:42 AM
