Those with the shakes and those that have a clicking rear.
#11
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by S2Kguy
[B]*Not afraid to admid I'm lost...
PINKY:
[B]*Not afraid to admid I'm lost...
PINKY:
#13
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I don't remember any clicking - at least not that I can think of right now... My shakes started a little after my first diff (entire unit) was replaced and a little before the second rear end went bad and I rebuilt it using a Kaaz diff. My CV joints don't have any real play, the input shafts have just a TINY bit, but I don't think that little bit of play is causing it. I'm running out of guesses though, so my bet goes on RT's CV theory.
#15
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I have a single CV sounding click whenever I change directions, just 1 click but very hollow, CV joint sounding, dealer said everything was ok. I have 14K on the clock.
What I HAVE noticed bigtime though is that when I have a low rear tire, the car shakes like hell on acceleration!
My right rear has a VERY slow leak that I'm too lazy to fix, I was about to take it to Honda because when accelerating the car shook pretty seriously, then just b4 I called to sched an appt, I checked and my RR tire was at 18PSI, aired it back up and the shake went away 100%.
So now when I feel it shake, I know my tire has leaked back down again.
The shake was most pronounced at about 67MPH in 5th, just roll onto the throttle and it would start shaking like a drum roll with rubber mallets under the chassis.
Dunno if this has anything to do with your guys probs, prolly not, but that's how I stopped my shake (for now).
-V
What I HAVE noticed bigtime though is that when I have a low rear tire, the car shakes like hell on acceleration!
My right rear has a VERY slow leak that I'm too lazy to fix, I was about to take it to Honda because when accelerating the car shook pretty seriously, then just b4 I called to sched an appt, I checked and my RR tire was at 18PSI, aired it back up and the shake went away 100%.
So now when I feel it shake, I know my tire has leaked back down again.
The shake was most pronounced at about 67MPH in 5th, just roll onto the throttle and it would start shaking like a drum roll with rubber mallets under the chassis.
Dunno if this has anything to do with your guys probs, prolly not, but that's how I stopped my shake (for now).
-V
#16
That's the same deal. When one tire is low then it has a slightly smaller radius, which makes it have to spin a little faster than the aired up side. Now take two tires both aired up correctly and instead of the straightaway acceleration test, make the car turn slightly one way or the other. Now the rear end sees exactly the same thing at the diff as in the previous example (WOT with slight diff action). Shakes baby! Got to like
#18
Originally posted by The Reverend
RT - any new findings on your shakes?
I'm about ready to just write my shakes off as "character".
RT - any new findings on your shakes?
I'm about ready to just write my shakes off as "character".
look at the Grand Canyon right @ 6 o'clock
here's a close-up:
all three sides that correspond to driving forward have the same deal going on!
I don't have a good way @ home to measure the depth of the divot, but it feels to be somewhere in the 30 thou range, pretty deep. This accounts for the looseness I reported. Interestingly, the mating part shows no signs of wear or failure. The surface looks like galling but I'm pretty sure it's not. I don't think the surfaces were ever sliding, just over loaded. Don't know what the cup material is, but maybe it's only hardened on the surface and the sub dermal layer couldn
#19
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RT, Are we looking at a joint from the drivers side or the the passenger side?? If its a drivers side joint isnt the divot on the surface that transmits engine braking torque?