My '00 has 46K and was giving me some trouble idling, especially after harder driving or in stop and go traffic. Yesterday, the check engine light came on, so I brought it to the dealership for diagnosis, hoping that it was a sensor or something. Well, apparently it is a sensor, but one that is inside the throttle body. Dealership says that the entire throttle body needs to be replaced, and the part costs $800+. I am trying to sell the car (not because I don't LOVE it, but because I'm trying to buy a house) and don't know what to do. Any advice? Any help woudl be GREATLY appreciated. It is just sitting there now, and I'm trying to decide if I should put the $1000 into it, or just park it for awhile.

 

You're being yanked. See attached blow up. The sensor is a seperate part. About $50. You can do this yourself.

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/j...5=THROTTLE+BODY

Get a second diagnosis first. Your dealer is a chump and is taking you for a ride.

 

The MAP sensor is a seperate part, the TPS in not. It depends what sensor needs to be replaced. Both sensors can cause drivability problems.

 

 

--> MOVED TO UNDER THE HOOD <--

 

Everyone, thanks for the advice. Slow and 3ngin, would the TPS sensor mean that the throttle body needs to be replaced? How would I know which sensor it needed? If I can somehow save myself several hundred bucks, it is worth a few beers (or a tank of gas) the next time you are in Florida.

 

If it is the TPS and you do have to replace the throttle body, it's still way cheaper to by it from someone like hardtopguy and do it yourself.

 

Well, if you have a voltmeter...


Ohm out your ground and reference signal wires on both sensors. Also check for voltage drops and that you're getting full signal. It should be a 5v reference.

Then, with KOEO, check your signal of TPS. It should be about 1v. Then manually turn throttle plate to WOT (KOEO) and measure voltage. It should be at about 4.0v.

The most important part is KOER at idle. It should be about 1.5v with absolutely no fluctuation. Even if the voltage reading is alternating from 1.52v to 1.55v and back, that's too much. Your TPS needs to be replaced. It would cause a bunch of driveability problems.



With your MAP, it's going to be a 12v reference, and a 1.0-5.0v signal. At idle, KOER, you'll have about 1.35v, and when you pop the throttle (don't hold it at full throttle), you should get a high voltage (about 3.0-3.7v).




I recommend just hook up a scanner and pull the codes. Also check your parameters and compare to spec.

 

It could also possibly be your IAC. A faulty IAC will also set a code and throw the CEL = driveability problems.

Also a 5v reference. Make sure your readings are all in-limit. If not, your ECU would've set a fixed value and referenced a similar sensor. More driveability problems.

 

Thanks everyone. Sadly, some of this has gone well beyond my automotive knowhow. Would it be fair to say that the diagnostic computer equipment should accurately be able to determine which sensor is causing the problem? I don't want to be taken by this dealer, I have no relationship there. If I could fix my car much cheaper than the $1000 they are proposing, it would help me out. By the way, this board has given me one more reason to not want to sell my car.