Not necessarily.

Your computer can accommodate so much before setting a code. Driveability these days is just about perfect, save for a hole in your block.

If you run a scan, it'll say "OK to drive," which will be true, but that doesn't mean everything is running as it should. The only way to be sure is to compare your parameters to manufacturer spec, to make sure they're within tolerances.

The reason I said to check voltage drops and all that BS is because you wanna make sure you're getting full voltage. If you have high resistance in your wiring, your sensors will be sending a weak signal to your PCM. If it does, let's say your TPS is at 50% but is telling the computer it's at 35%. (The computer simply reads a voltage, and the higher the voltage, the larger the TPS opening, and vice versa). If the computer thinks you're at 35% when you're really at 50%, you won't have proper STFT modulation and/or timing advance. Or you could possibly have a lean air/fuel mixture.

As for steady signal... if you have a fluctuating TPS signal, the PCM will have a hard time accommodating. I believe spark advance can only advance 4

 

Nevertheless, your Honda boys should've done all that for you. They say you need a new sensor so maybe you do. They just cut to the chase, because most people don't want/need an explanation, right?

I'll try to pull up some spec on the AllData tomorrow and I'll get back to you. From there, you'll just need to mess around with a DMM then we can diagnose your problem.

 

Pro-Flow TB's have new TPS sensor and it's made to be adjustable on the side. Though it is spec'ed out by Pro-Flow before sending it out.

You need to use your Map Sensor but that's an easy swap out if that is the issue.

Might want to think about that.

 

Never manually adjust your TPS. Never. Your computer will throw a fit.

 

So Alex, would you say that forking over $1000 to the dealership is a bad idea? Is this something that I might be able to tackle myself, with somewhat limited mechanical knowledge?

 

TPS = Throttle position sensor?

 

Yes, TPS = throttle position sensor.

Do NOT fork over $1000 to the dealership. If anything, you can purchase a larger throttle body from King Motorsports for less than half that.

Yes, you should be able to tackle this yourself. All you need to know is how to use a voltmeter (an oscilloscope would be better but you probably don't have one ); the hard part is figuring out what all the readings mean!

 

The first thing you should do is have somebody pull some codes. AutoZone does it for free.

These are possible codes that may have been set:


PO107/108 = bad MAP signal
PO122/123 = bad TPS signal (does NOT include fluctuating signal)


Also, while you have a scanner hooked up, copy down your STFT/LTFT (counts), IAC position (%), TPS position (%) at idle, TPS voltage (make sure it's steady), MAP ("Hg).

 

Thanks Alex, I appreciate all the help and time you have spent with this. I'm going to pick up the car tomorrow and see what they can tell me about the codes since I'll have to pay $75 for the diagnostic anyway.

 

I picked up the car this morning. They charged me $75, but could not give me a print out of the codes (service advisor said the printer for the computer was down on Saturday). I did get some hand written information. The hand written info says the code was P0122. Other numbers were TP -4.4 degrees, volt .08. Idle .27 V and full throttle 4.45 V. Now, I drove the car home, the CEL was off and it idled and ran perfectly. Will this problem come back with some driving? There is no danger of harming the vehicle if I drive it right now, is there?