Just within the past couple weeks I have noticed a slight change in my clutch pedal feel. Quick background for use: I bought the car with 44k miles last year and it was stock except a Clutch Master Stage III clutch...but.. they guy I bought the car from said the dealership put the clutch in as replacement after the stock one went out....he provided the clutch they installed.

Now..back to whats going on.. I noticed the clutch is not engaging close to the floor but a lot closer to the top now when I'm letting it out. I have 72k on the car as of today. The clutch itself still feels good when it grabs, doesn't seem to be slipping. I was wondering if maybe the dealership didn't replace the throwout bearing when they did the clutch for some reason or didn't do something right. 35k miles shouldn't be the life of a clutch like this.

My options.
1. Pull the tranny, buy a throw-out bearing and see if that's the fix. (Although I still have clutch buzz sooo maybe it isn't just the bearing???)
2. Buy a whole new clutch and say screw it and do full replacement and spend lots of $$ (that I don't have)
3. Just keep driving the car until it gets so bad I have no choice but to take action.

Also after clutch depression at times coming to a light the car shutters a little bit...maybe due to the throwout bearing not fully releasing the clutch??

 

Before you go tearing the tranny out, try a clutch fluid bleed first. Then adjust the clutch friction point at the pedal.
Depending upon how the car has been treated (and not knowing the longevity of this aftermarket clutch), 35 miles can be a long time for this car. Even the OEM clutch has been known to go much sooner than this.
I don't "think" the T.O. bearing is your problem here. Unless it has slipped on the "fingers", a bad bearing would generally make a lot of noise.

 

I'm not getting the typical throwout bearing noise so I kinda thought about that too.. The fluid was pretty nasty when we flushed my brake fluid but we were in a rush so I didn't have time to totally flush the clutch.

I don't know about adjusting the friction point at the pedal..maybe you can point me to a link that talks about that or shows how. If it's in the manual I can look itup tonight. I'm not wanting to think its the clutch itself.... if it is then I think I am going to go Mugen for replacement.

 

Sorry, I never did a "How To" on this one. It's in the Helm but not easily found.
Crawl under the dash and look at the clutch pedal where the plunger rod is. It is this rod that you turn to make minor adjustment to the friction point. You have to unlock the lock nut and turn the rod with your fingers. Do no more than 1/2 turn at a time and keep count and remember which way you turned it. Lock up the nut and go for a drive around the block. Continue this till it feels right.

 

Like where the cotter pin is that connects the pedal to the clutch master cylinder? I'll try to find it in my Helms.

 

Not sure about the cotter pin. I haven't been under there for a while. It'll be very obvious once you see it. The plunger rod goes into the firewall.

 

Yea, I havn't been under my dash of the S but all the other Honda's ive worked on the plunger rod connects and has a cotter pin

 

This one definately has a locknut that needs to be loosened in order to turn the rod.

 

As the clutch disk friction material wears down, isn't it normal behavior for the clutch pedal to start engaging higher and higher?

 

That's my understanding of it. This is the most likely reason for what is happening here, but it wouldn't hurt to do some cheap and easy things first. When the clutch is done, the T.O. bearing should be replaced anyway. It just seemed like a lot of work to tear it apart just to change out the bearing and not do anything else, when this would not likely fix the problem.