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I've been doing meticulous research to how to do this properly. I have the 00' - 03' manual in hand, but I have a few questions.
1. which sensors are absolutely necessary to disconnect? I know TDC1&2 and the sensors connected to the tranny need to be disconnected. Are Steps 16 through 19 necessary or can I just disconnect the battery. When it comes to wiring, I'm completely lost. Takes me a minute to understand what does what.
2. Which bolts can I get away not replacing? I have the PP to flywheel bolts and flywheel to crank bolts and the propshaft bolts that everyone says are ridiculous to get out. The manual recommends replacing the 6 front subframe bolts, the self-locking nut for both the exhaust manifold and cat converter, and the special bolt for the cat converter. Which of these can I just reuse?
Any other tips for the job would be greatly appreciated. I've done the valve swap to AP2 retainers and that was a PITA and made some close call mistakes, but everything worked. I want to prevent any stupid mistakes I can avoid on my first clutch job. I do have access to a lift so it'll make life a lot easier, just as long as I follow the guide and any tips you guys have.
honestly there are some great youtube diy's of this already with close up video of what to disconnect and how to do it, i would check out one of those!
Disconnecting wires are done because the don't have the slack to reach as the subframe is lowered., so you do it. I would say that few replace the bolts you are questioning.
Alright, this job was probably the most difficult i've done on the s, mainly because every one of my transmission bolts were seized and i was literally hanging from my breaker bar underneath the car bouncing my entire weight up and down until a gun shot went off loosening those bolts LOL. Otherwise, the job itself wasnt too bad, just takes time. Try to undo all the wiring connectors that are tethered to the frame of the car, like the one behind the motor right by the firewall and the couple up on top of the transmission where you can only feel by hand. There's also a few on the driver's side block/tranny you can reach from underneath. Also be very careful you dont break that one sensor on the back of the motor near the passenger side when lowering/raising the motor.
Remember to place the jack under the subframe and support it before loosening the subframe bolts to lower the motor. lower it slowly being careful not to damage that one sensor i mentioned above. I believe i also removed my header (dont remember if this was necessary or not but it made the job a little easier).
grab a wobble or swivel socket extension set to gain access to the alternator bolt, I stood over the passenger fender and used a flashlight to guide my socket onto the bolt. If you have huge hands this part may be difficult. For this part of the job as well as getting to the upper transmission bolts, you'll need A LOT of extensions. iirc make sure you have about 3ft of socket extensions.
If you're also replacing the flywheel, you'll either need something to lock the flywheel in place or use an electric/air impact gun to break loose and tighten the bolts.
Lastly, try to stay as organized as possible placing all the loosened bolts in a manner in which you can find them and know where they go. I reused all my bolts except for the clutch bolts, i believe i went with new just because i had them lying around. good luck!
Oh, couple more tips. Make sure to tighten down the clutch bolts in a star shaped pattern in steps. i dont remember the torque value off top, but say it is 50. tighten all of them to 10 in a star shaped pattern, then 20, then 30, so on and so forth. dont tighten one bolt to 50 then the rest, it'll mess up the tension on the pressure plate. Make sure to use a torque wrench and tighten to the proper spec, over tightening these bolts can also screw up the pressure plate and its function. Also, remember to use a ziptie or towel or something to keep the clutch fork from falling into the transmission housing when you're ready to reinstall the tranny. And dont push in the clutch fork until you tighten all the transmission bolts to the block. Somehow at first, i had wedged the clutch fork in behind the clutch or something and i couldnt depress my clutch pedal, had to take it all apart again. so remember, pushing the clutch fork in and reinstalling the slave cylinder should be the very last step. Also no need to drain the clutch fluid, just disconnect the slave cylinder from the fork. Also, this might be a good time to either replace the slave cylinder or take it apart and grind away a nipple on the ball end that forms depending on how many miles you put on your car.
You can wedge a transmission bolt between the flywheel and bellhousing that'll let you torque it down. Do the star pattern then torque it down again. Also it's 90ft lbs for the flywheel bolts.
Alright, this job was probably the most difficult i've done on the s, mainly because every one of my transmission bolts were seized and i was literally hanging from my breaker bar underneath the car bouncing my entire weight up and down until a gun shot went off loosening those bolts LOL. Otherwise, the job itself wasnt too bad, just takes time. Try to undo all the wiring connectors that are tethered to the frame of the car, like the one behind the motor right by the firewall and the couple up on top of the transmission where you can only feel by hand. There's also a few on the driver's side block/tranny you can reach from underneath. Also be very careful you dont break that one sensor on the back of the motor near the passenger side when lowering/raising the motor.
Remember to place the jack under the subframe and support it before loosening the subframe bolts to lower the motor. lower it slowly being careful not to damage that one sensor i mentioned above. I believe i also removed my header (dont remember if this was necessary or not but it made the job a little easier).
grab a wobble or swivel socket extension set to gain access to the alternator bolt, I stood over the passenger fender and used a flashlight to guide my socket onto the bolt. If you have huge hands this part may be difficult. For this part of the job as well as getting to the upper transmission bolts, you'll need A LOT of extensions. iirc make sure you have about 3ft of socket extensions.
If you're also replacing the flywheel, you'll either need something to lock the flywheel in place or use an electric/air impact gun to break loose and tighten the bolts.
Lastly, try to stay as organized as possible placing all the loosened bolts in a manner in which you can find them and know where they go. I reused all my bolts except for the clutch bolts, i believe i went with new just because i had them lying around. good luck!
Oh, couple more tips. Make sure to tighten down the clutch bolts in a star shaped pattern in steps. i dont remember the torque value off top, but say it is 50. tighten all of them to 10 in a star shaped pattern, then 20, then 30, so on and so forth. dont tighten one bolt to 50 then the rest, it'll mess up the tension on the pressure plate. Make sure to use a torque wrench and tighten to the proper spec, over tightening these bolts can also screw up the pressure plate and its function. Also, remember to use a ziptie or towel or something to keep the clutch fork from falling into the transmission housing when you're ready to reinstall the tranny. And dont push in the clutch fork until you tighten all the transmission bolts to the block. Somehow at first, i had wedged the clutch fork in behind the clutch or something and i couldnt depress my clutch pedal, had to take it all apart again. so remember, pushing the clutch fork in and reinstalling the slave cylinder should be the very last step. Also no need to drain the clutch fluid, just disconnect the slave cylinder from the fork. Also, this might be a good time to either replace the slave cylinder or take it apart and grind away a nipple on the ball end that forms depending on how many miles you put on your car.
Awesome advice thank you!
As to which wiring harnesses were you referring to on the side/block tranny that I can get to from underneath? I have the manual and when it comes to disconnecting certain harnesses near the steering gear box, I have yet to find out where that is. Is that what you're referring to?
Also for the starter bolt behind the alternator. Is it wise to remove the knock sensor? I really REALLY don't want to make a mistake with 3' of extensions and screw it up. I just don't know where the sensor is located.
Thanks for the clutch fork tip! the manual never specified that part so I'll make sure to implement it.
During what part of the clutch job would that happen? Cause doing the valve job you need a decent sized breaker bar to get to TDC on each cylinder.
Tightening PP or flywheel bolts by hand may cause the engine to spin backward.
Also just human error...or someone who wants to turn the flywheel for a more advantageous positioning.
****I'm referencing clockwise from the PULLEY side. The engine's normal rotation is CLOCKWISE at the pulleys. COUNTER clockwise when looking at the flywheel friction face.
Originally Posted by DanielB
I don't recall if Honda specs threadlocker for the flywheel bolts, but I don't see any downside to it. Blue should be good - don't think you want red.
01-11-2018, 03:08 PM
Tips and Questions for First Clutch Job
