Those torque wrenches are old. One is from my Dad. They've helped me rebuild many engines, do clutch jobs, etc.

 

That´s the best proof of quality, if the tool serves father and then the son.

 

If you weren't supposed to be able to tighten it any further than the point at which it's properly torqued, we wouldn't need a torque spec. Just tighten until you can't tighten no more.

But instead, like any fastener you can torque, you're supposed to stop when torque wrench clicks, otherwise nothing prevents you from tightening more than it was designed for.

The fact you can still tighten it further does not prove metal to metal contact hasn't occurred.

 

Yes, you are just stretching the oil filter threads more and more. I would not want to snap those. This may lead to a very bad day.

 

I never concerned myself with metal-to-metal contact, it might have made contact but I never checked. I followed Honda's recommendation and double checked their recommendation with a torque wrench. I could never remove the filter without a tool so I know it was on there good and tight after each oil change interval. You definitely could tighten the filter further than what I used but you risk distortion of the rubber seal and possibly damaging the mounting threads. I know people who thought they had to tighten wheel lugnuts as tight as hell, and it rarely worked out well for them.

 

In my opinion, there is no metall-to-metall contact with the -004 filter when you install it following the honda instructions.

My old Suzuki GSXR had a filter design with a o-ring gasket that calls for 2 complete turns when installing the filter. The filter allways bottomed out and made metall-to-metall contact, noticeable when thigtenning the filter. It just stops. Like a bolt. Or a lug nut. No chance to turn it further even only 1/64 of a turn. And there where marks on the gasket surface at the engine block, if i remember correctly. And you allways had to fight hard with this filter to get it loose the next oil chance.
That was a very safe and sound design, because oil spills at a motorcycle end on the rear wheel. This means, the rider could die. That´s where things get serious.

This is a harsh contrast to my expirience with the -004 filter, wich you can turn further when installing even after the torque wrench clicked and open it allmost effortles when you do the next Oil Change. Just a filter cap, a small 3/8 ratchet, a little "Oomph" and the filter is open. A child could do this. And this on a car that is notorius for vibrating oil filters loose.

 

I guess everyone can do it how they like, if the filter spins off then someone takes responsibility for it. I did my own installs every time as I noted, 9 years, 18+ filters , 30k miles, track days, trips to the Dragon, and other long trips, never had a filter loosen even the slightest. Every time I removed a filter it was on good and tight, a child would have had a very hard time removing the ones I installed as they were stiff enough for me to remove. I did my own quality control and it passed the test each time, I can't speak to others. I suspect there is some guessing that occurs when the gasket touches mating/mounting surface, if you do it right it works, if you don't then I suppose filters can come loose. I think those who have filters coming loose have made significant errors in their installation approach, not just being off a smidge. I just never seen any issues in all of the years doing it the way I did, not even close.

 

In my opinion, since there is no Metall-to-metall contact, the -004 or -306 filter is only hold in place by this very small P-shaped rubber gasket. I am maybe wrong, but i dont see any proof or evidence for the metall-to-metall contact.
While this denso torque stop design gasket system works well for every other car, it is maybe not so good for a car that is notorius for vibrating the oil filter loose.

Since i have made the switch to the MANN W610/6 or Purflux LS350 filter with a traditonal square shaped gasket i allways have a very hard time to get the filter loose the next oil change. These flters sits much, much thighter compared to the -004. . A oil fliter wrench will slip and dent the filter case when i try to open the MANN or Purflux filters. I usullay need this tool and a long ratchet (about 30 cm / 1 feet) to get the filter loose.

However, the whole discussion is a little pointless, becasue obviously i am the only person in the whole S2000 community with concerns and questions regarding the -004 filter.....

 

What about me…
I have an oil filter sandwich plate …??? Guess it’s Greedy…

 

I would love to know how many on these forums had filters come loose ? It was something that occurred many years ago, I don't know of anyone reporting it happening to them on these forums in 10+ years ? Billman may have more experience with that more than anyone. I just think when it has happened it was likely a combination of errors and not just something that happened to people who followed the Honda recommended process 100% correctly.