Top-end engine ticking after track session
Originally Posted by windhund116' timestamp='1472780857' post='24053256
[quote name='zeroptzero' timestamp='1472780460' post='24053251']Since you track the car a good 40 weight oil would be a good choice IMO to help with elevated temps as viscosity thins with increased temps. Secondly, a thicker viscosity oil tends to quiet down the valvetrain, if that is the source of the added noise. Cheap and easy test.
Are you talking 10W-40 or straight 40W oil? Like Redline stuff?
https://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-Oil-...40w+racing+oil
Thanks!
[/quote]
^ This, you can use any brand you like, I do like Red Line 5w40 or 10w40, Mobil1 makes a great 0w40 as does Amsoil, but something like that is what I would suggest.
Hey LeonV, I got a chance to read through your thread here and I'm sorry you're having this issue. From what I read you've been through your entire valve train multiple times and quite thoroughly. I think you may have been onto something with the LMA's though which is a shame since you had removed them, measured them and determined that they were fine based on free length...
I was researching the issue and ran across a thread on a different forum. Now granted, this isn't an S2000, it is a B16 DOHC VTEC Honda engine so it's surprisingly similar in its construction.
This guy in the other thread mentions that the issue with the LMA's is known (on that engine) and that they fail not in free length when measured, but a weakened spring rate over time. Now I'm just speculating here but it sounds like its possible you have the same issue. He also mentions that Honda "fixed" the issue by updating the LMA's so you'd think that the S2000 shouldn't have the issue, but all metal fatigues over time so I wouldn't count it out completely. Also keep in mind that the metal would have less spring rate as temperature rises. Just another reason I'm connecting the two in my mind... Obviously I can't be sure and I'm only offering this info based on research and not real world experience, so take it as you will.
If you have a method of measuring the spring rate it might be worth your time to do so(or simply replace them anyway since you said they were cheap). The thread I was reading was a success story like you mentioned you hadn't seen yet. It was also a relatively thorough DIY, although some steps would be slightly different due to the fact its a slightly different engine.
When the job was done he states "The new LMA's made the engine so smooth. Not only was the tapping noise gone, but the engine reved smoother. I am very pleased with the results."
The link is below. Have a read through it if you have time and let me know what you think. Hopefully this helps you out.
http://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-c...d-lma-2536305/
I was researching the issue and ran across a thread on a different forum. Now granted, this isn't an S2000, it is a B16 DOHC VTEC Honda engine so it's surprisingly similar in its construction.
This guy in the other thread mentions that the issue with the LMA's is known (on that engine) and that they fail not in free length when measured, but a weakened spring rate over time. Now I'm just speculating here but it sounds like its possible you have the same issue. He also mentions that Honda "fixed" the issue by updating the LMA's so you'd think that the S2000 shouldn't have the issue, but all metal fatigues over time so I wouldn't count it out completely. Also keep in mind that the metal would have less spring rate as temperature rises. Just another reason I'm connecting the two in my mind... Obviously I can't be sure and I'm only offering this info based on research and not real world experience, so take it as you will.
If you have a method of measuring the spring rate it might be worth your time to do so(or simply replace them anyway since you said they were cheap). The thread I was reading was a success story like you mentioned you hadn't seen yet. It was also a relatively thorough DIY, although some steps would be slightly different due to the fact its a slightly different engine.
When the job was done he states "The new LMA's made the engine so smooth. Not only was the tapping noise gone, but the engine reved smoother. I am very pleased with the results."
The link is below. Have a read through it if you have time and let me know what you think. Hopefully this helps you out.
http://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-c...d-lma-2536305/
Alright guys, here's the video. It starts coming on at 0:34 and you can really hear it by 0:40. Sorry for the crap video quality but you can at least hear the rattle I'm talking about.
Edit: sounds like it goes away at 1:11 and comes back again at 1:20.
https://youtu.be/EEpBUiANQgg
Edit: sounds like it goes away at 1:11 and comes back again at 1:20.
https://youtu.be/EEpBUiANQgg
Hey LeonV, I got a chance to read through your thread here and I'm sorry you're having this issue. From what I read you've been through your entire valve train multiple times and quite thoroughly. I think you may have been onto something with the LMA's though which is a shame since you had removed them, measured them and determined that they were fine based on free length...
I was researching the issue and ran across a thread on a different forum. Now granted, this isn't an S2000, it is a B16 DOHC VTEC Honda engine so it's surprisingly similar in its construction.
This guy in the other thread mentions that the issue with the LMA's is known (on that engine) and that they fail not in free length when measured, but a weakened spring rate over time. Now I'm just speculating here but it sounds like its possible you have the same issue. He also mentions that Honda "fixed" the issue by updating the LMA's so you'd think that the S2000 shouldn't have the issue, but all metal fatigues over time so I wouldn't count it out completely. Also keep in mind that the metal would have less spring rate as temperature rises. Just another reason I'm connecting the two in my mind... Obviously I can't be sure and I'm only offering this info based on research and not real world experience, so take it as you will.
If you have a method of measuring the spring rate it might be worth your time to do so(or simply replace them anyway since you said they were cheap). The thread I was reading was a success story like you mentioned you hadn't seen yet. It was also a relatively thorough DIY, although some steps would be slightly different due to the fact its a slightly different engine.
When the job was done he states "The new LMA's made the engine so smooth. Not only was the tapping noise gone, but the engine reved smoother. I am very pleased with the results."
The link is below. Have a read through it if you have time and let me know what you think. Hopefully this helps you out.
http://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-c...d-lma-2536305/
I was researching the issue and ran across a thread on a different forum. Now granted, this isn't an S2000, it is a B16 DOHC VTEC Honda engine so it's surprisingly similar in its construction.
This guy in the other thread mentions that the issue with the LMA's is known (on that engine) and that they fail not in free length when measured, but a weakened spring rate over time. Now I'm just speculating here but it sounds like its possible you have the same issue. He also mentions that Honda "fixed" the issue by updating the LMA's so you'd think that the S2000 shouldn't have the issue, but all metal fatigues over time so I wouldn't count it out completely. Also keep in mind that the metal would have less spring rate as temperature rises. Just another reason I'm connecting the two in my mind... Obviously I can't be sure and I'm only offering this info based on research and not real world experience, so take it as you will.
If you have a method of measuring the spring rate it might be worth your time to do so(or simply replace them anyway since you said they were cheap). The thread I was reading was a success story like you mentioned you hadn't seen yet. It was also a relatively thorough DIY, although some steps would be slightly different due to the fact its a slightly different engine.
When the job was done he states "The new LMA's made the engine so smooth. Not only was the tapping noise gone, but the engine reved smoother. I am very pleased with the results."
The link is below. Have a read through it if you have time and let me know what you think. Hopefully this helps you out.
http://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-c...d-lma-2536305/
Anybody have an accurate (measured with good caliper or mic) free-length measurement of a new LMA?
Originally Posted by LeonV' timestamp='1472793184' post='24053354
Alright guys, here's the video. It starts coming on at 0:34 and you can really hear it by 0:40. Sorry for the crap video quality but you can at least hear the rattle I'm talking about.
Edit: sounds like it goes away at 1:11 and comes back again at 1:20.
https://youtu.be/EEpBUiANQgg
Edit: sounds like it goes away at 1:11 and comes back again at 1:20.
https://youtu.be/EEpBUiANQgg
It's 100% not accessory belt related since it still makes the noise with the belt removed.
Originally Posted by s2000Junky' timestamp='1472792262' post='24053348
[quote name='windhund116' timestamp='1472780857' post='24053256']
[quote name='zeroptzero' timestamp='1472780460' post='24053251']Since you track the car a good 40 weight oil would be a good choice IMO to help with elevated temps as viscosity thins with increased temps. Secondly, a thicker viscosity oil tends to quiet down the valvetrain, if that is the source of the added noise. Cheap and easy test.
[quote name='zeroptzero' timestamp='1472780460' post='24053251']Since you track the car a good 40 weight oil would be a good choice IMO to help with elevated temps as viscosity thins with increased temps. Secondly, a thicker viscosity oil tends to quiet down the valvetrain, if that is the source of the added noise. Cheap and easy test.
Are you talking 10W-40 or straight 40W oil? Like Redline stuff?
https://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-Oil-...40w+racing+oil
Thanks!
[/quote]
^ This, you can use any brand you like, I do like Red Line 5w40 or 10w40, Mobil1 makes a great 0w40 as does Amsoil, but something like that is what I would suggest.
[/quote]
I was considering 0W-40 as I just got a bunch for my Volvo. Used Mobil1 for my last oil change but have 15qt of GC 0W-40 coming next week. I have a fresh fill of Amsoil 10W-30 in the S2000 so I don't want to dump it just yet.
In my experience on my car and others, the TCT failures aren't all the same, its not a clockwork failure. For me, I had 2 that started acting up by a TC rattle at first start up in the morning and would then go away after 1-2 sec after the tensioner re primed itself with oil. Many other report problems such as yours to where its a full out failure where the Tensioner never primes, and what you here is the chain slapping against the guides, because the tensioner isn't picking up the slack. Some report symptoms of the TCT acting up after the oil temp gets high and then goes away when it cools down, oil viscosity makes a difference. Usually it seems my experience is what happens in first stages, before it just never primes anymore, and you have a situation like yours. IF thats what it is. Again, not much else that makes that kind of racket on the engine. Maybe try the ol metal stick trick, putting your ear to one end and the other placed in key areas on the motor to listen for culprit location. If it is the TCT, I would expect the loudest noise coming from the front of the engine at the timing cover.
In my experience on my car and others, the TCT failures aren't all the same, its not a clockwork failure. For me, I had 2 that started acting up by a TC rattle at first start up in the morning and would then go away after 1-2 sec after the tensioner re primed itself with oil. Many other report problems such as yours to where its a full out failure where the Tensioner never primes, and what you here is the chain slapping against the guides, because the tensioner isn't picking up the slack. Some report symptoms of the TCT acting up after the oil temp gets high and then goes away when it cools down, oil viscosity makes a difference. Usually it seems my experience is what happens in first stages, before it just never primes anymore, and you have a situation like yours. IF thats what it is. Again, not much else that makes that kind of racket on the engine. Maybe try the ol metal stick trick, putting your ear to one end and the other placed in key areas on the motor to listen for culprit location. If it is the TCT, I would expect the loudest noise coming from the front of the engine at the timing cover.
I have a track day on 9/11 so I'm considering just buying the Billman TCT as a might-as-well do it kind of thing...
Originally Posted by zeroptzero' timestamp='1472836508' post='24053710
[quote name='s2000Junky' timestamp='1472792262' post='24053348']
[quote name='windhund116' timestamp='1472780857' post='24053256']
[quote name='zeroptzero' timestamp='1472780460' post='24053251']Since you track the car a good 40 weight oil would be a good choice IMO to help with elevated temps as viscosity thins with increased temps. Secondly, a thicker viscosity oil tends to quiet down the valvetrain, if that is the source of the added noise. Cheap and easy test.
[quote name='windhund116' timestamp='1472780857' post='24053256']
[quote name='zeroptzero' timestamp='1472780460' post='24053251']Since you track the car a good 40 weight oil would be a good choice IMO to help with elevated temps as viscosity thins with increased temps. Secondly, a thicker viscosity oil tends to quiet down the valvetrain, if that is the source of the added noise. Cheap and easy test.
Are you talking 10W-40 or straight 40W oil? Like Redline stuff?
https://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-Oil-...40w+racing+oil
Thanks!
[/quote]
^ This, you can use any brand you like, I do like Red Line 5w40 or 10w40, Mobil1 makes a great 0w40 as does Amsoil, but something like that is what I would suggest.
[/quote]
I was considering 0W-40 as I just got a bunch for my Volvo. Used Mobil1 for my last oil change but have 15qt of GC 0W-40 coming next week. I have a fresh fill of Amsoil 10W-30 in the S2000 so I don't want to dump it just yet.

[/quote]
That will work fine too, lots of good choices out there, see how that works for you.
I also agree with the recommendations listed above for a Billman TCT swap, I had a TCT issue that was unlike what most other owners reported, the Billman TCT solved it immediately, just like Junky stated. One more thing to cross of the list of potential culprits and it isn't that expensive, and eventually you will need one given the high failure rate of the oem Honda parts. Worth a try.










