I don't have the tools (or guts) to do the Billman method so I asked my Honda Shop (not dealer) to do it. They didn't want to. So, what is going to happen to my 38K miles AP2 worse case? Thanks.

 

As long as it is legal (putting in a stolen cat) you can tell your shop to do something even if they don't recommend it. They have a little disclaimer you can sign stating that you take full responsibility for the work performed.

If that fails, go to Harbor Freight or eBay and get what you need. It really is pretty easy. I used a piece of fence rail to slip over the wrench to make leverage a piece of cake.

 

You can also rent what you need. Places that rent out larger tools and equipment (augers, bobcats, etc) always have this stuff in the shop for maintenance.

 

Take it to another shop?

 

really, if you can change a tire, you can do this. Now, if you're coming to RTD 2019, there will likely be someone there who can help you out.

You can always show the dealer the s2ki thread and maybe they'll grow up.

good luck!

darcy

 

Nothing wrong with your shop for not wanting to do it. It's also been known to snap axle stubs, so there's that.......

 

 

I retorqued my 2006 axle nuts at about 38K miles 4 summers ago. No problems before or since. Dirt simple job with the right tools and there are plenty of instructions in this forum. Longest part of the process is removing the rear wheels, removing the center caps, and putting the wheels back on. Removing the center caps is possible with the wheels on the car -- in theory. At $30 each I don't want to damage them.

You'll need a 36mm 3/4" drive socket and breaker bar with at least a 2-foot handle. You can probably borrow this at an auto parts store, buy the grease there if you don't have it, and retorque the nuts in their parking lot in not much more time than it'll take me to type this (if you've previously removed the center caps).

Unscrew the nut (the stake will self-remove).
Clean and grease.
Tighten to the original factory mark.
Tighten an additional 60°, one flat on the nut. You're gonna need a handle extension or stand on it. No need to torque, just that additional 1/6 turn on the nut.
Restake.
Replace the center caps paying careful attention so the H points to the valve stem. This guarantees an extra 5 hp per wheel.

If anyone in the RVA wants to do this I have the wrench and grease.

-- Chuck

 

Lol...I don't blame the shop for not wanting to do that.

This method takes some experienced "feel". Billman's comment was that 60 degrees isn't a hard target. He says he can "feel" when the nut is tight enough.

Honda's TSB method is more repeatable...but possibly not effective enough.

My method is to grease the thread and face and shoot for ~250LB-FT. I also use "feel" to ensure they're fine.

If your bearing isn't making noises...I would opt to err on the conservative side and just use Honda's method.

 

with my first s2000 (2003) at 35K miles I did the axle nut retorque when I got it home. Then proceeded to attend 6 dragon trips and 7 years of autocross with never a rear bearing issue. I sold the car with 72K miles last year and picked up my friends 2006 with 68K miles. She never did the axle nut retorque but had to replace her rear wheel bearings (track, autocross).

it will cost some dollars to replace your rear bearings. It costs nothing to do the retorque. I used a 3/4" driver with extension and at about 45 degrees felt about right.

darcy