Torque Rear Axle Nuts
#11
Moderator
Be warned:
60 degrees is a GUIDE, and is the average amount an untouched oem nut will move. ALL S2000 rear axle nuts are under torqued from the factory. If you don't corner the car aggressively at all, it will not be an issue. Cornering the car is what loads the bearing races outwards, opening the gap against insufficient nut torque.
Anyone who breaks an axle end has overtigened the nut, plain and simple.
Don’t concentrate on 60 degrees, concentrate on the feedback via the 3/4 drive wrench when you near 60 degrees.
1/2” drive will not feed back, and likely break.
60 degrees is a GUIDE, and is the average amount an untouched oem nut will move. ALL S2000 rear axle nuts are under torqued from the factory. If you don't corner the car aggressively at all, it will not be an issue. Cornering the car is what loads the bearing races outwards, opening the gap against insufficient nut torque.
Anyone who breaks an axle end has overtigened the nut, plain and simple.
Don’t concentrate on 60 degrees, concentrate on the feedback via the 3/4 drive wrench when you near 60 degrees.
1/2” drive will not feed back, and likely break.
Last edited by Billman250; 01-22-2019 at 08:57 AM.
#12
I think it would be very helpful to try and elaborate on what feedback people should be feeling for.
Is it the feeling of bolt stretch? The feeling where, as wrench turns, the load keeps increasing and increasing as you go, until you reach a point where force no longer increases with more motion. It levels off as bolt (or in this case shaft) begins to stretch. That is your feedback to stop turning.
Is it that we are trying to feel for?
Is it the feeling of bolt stretch? The feeling where, as wrench turns, the load keeps increasing and increasing as you go, until you reach a point where force no longer increases with more motion. It levels off as bolt (or in this case shaft) begins to stretch. That is your feedback to stop turning.
Is it that we are trying to feel for?
#13
Don't think you're going to feel the thread on an axle stretch, its hardened and over an inch diameter, so will default to sheer.
Having done these relatively recently using the following steps
- unstake
- grease face of nut only(not threads!)
- Torque to 180ft, notate the original stake position relative to where the stake hole is. All the axles I've done recently (6 or 3 cars) have had the stake line up with where it original was.
- The Feeling hes talking about is what im going to refer to as the "sinch" from the 180ftlb point. Each point of the hex is 60 degrees so you are only trying to turn 1/6th of a revolution. The feeling of a "bolt stopping" when tightenting or the "sinch" is where you should stop. at least 4 out of 6 have sinched around 40-45 degrees, and only a couple had the sinch right around 60.
I think hes talking about the feedback of the sinch. as with a 1/2 at 40-60 degrees rotation is going to be beyond the 250lb "max" of 1/2 drive so there's going to be significant deflection in the tool, which is bad for feeling what the threads are doing as all you can feel is tool deflection, hence 3/4".
Idfk
Having done these relatively recently using the following steps
- unstake
- grease face of nut only(not threads!)
- Torque to 180ft, notate the original stake position relative to where the stake hole is. All the axles I've done recently (6 or 3 cars) have had the stake line up with where it original was.
- The Feeling hes talking about is what im going to refer to as the "sinch" from the 180ftlb point. Each point of the hex is 60 degrees so you are only trying to turn 1/6th of a revolution. The feeling of a "bolt stopping" when tightenting or the "sinch" is where you should stop. at least 4 out of 6 have sinched around 40-45 degrees, and only a couple had the sinch right around 60.
I think hes talking about the feedback of the sinch. as with a 1/2 at 40-60 degrees rotation is going to be beyond the 250lb "max" of 1/2 drive so there's going to be significant deflection in the tool, which is bad for feeling what the threads are doing as all you can feel is tool deflection, hence 3/4".
Idfk
#15
I doubt it will be useful to describe the feel.
Its important to keep the wrench moving. You'll get to a point where the resistance becomes more "solid", which coincides with a point where your memory tells you that the nut is tight. If it breaks...well...you went too far. Live and learn and commit it to memory. No need to make a thread about it.
Again, this "60deg" method is properly done with experience. If you don't know what you're doing:
-Roll the dice and try it out.
-Take it to someone
-Do Honda's procedure instead, since its repeatable.
You can always be conservative at first and then go back and tighten it a smidge more until your clicking noise goes away.
People love to gloat how they took a breaker bar and a 75ft telephone pole attached to it and were able to twist the nut an additional (x) amount of degrees in a feat to impress the internet on how tight they can get shit. I would be cautious of this type of advice.
Its just an axle stub. Its obviously not made out of the same material a C10.9 fastener is. Don't be a dummy.
Its important to keep the wrench moving. You'll get to a point where the resistance becomes more "solid", which coincides with a point where your memory tells you that the nut is tight. If it breaks...well...you went too far. Live and learn and commit it to memory. No need to make a thread about it.
Again, this "60deg" method is properly done with experience. If you don't know what you're doing:
-Roll the dice and try it out.
-Take it to someone
-Do Honda's procedure instead, since its repeatable.
You can always be conservative at first and then go back and tighten it a smidge more until your clicking noise goes away.
People love to gloat how they took a breaker bar and a 75ft telephone pole attached to it and were able to twist the nut an additional (x) amount of degrees in a feat to impress the internet on how tight they can get shit. I would be cautious of this type of advice.
Its just an axle stub. Its obviously not made out of the same material a C10.9 fastener is. Don't be a dummy.
#16
OP enjoys this thread less than the rest of us.
Buy a 3/4" breaker, 36mm socket and give it a whirl.
You can describe a "feeling" until jesus comes back, or you could park the car for an hour and see what happens 1st hand.
Buy a 3/4" breaker, 36mm socket and give it a whirl.
You can describe a "feeling" until jesus comes back, or you could park the car for an hour and see what happens 1st hand.
#17
And if anyone is in the Portland area I can let you borrow these
#18
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