So I torqued on my head yesterday, and I kind of screwed up. I went through the normal patern and I snugged up all of the nuts (I have studs). I then went through the patern again and starting tightening them more.. I am assuming maybe 45 foot lbs of force or so. Then I went to read the manual thinking that there was just a torque spec and not the 22ft lbs + 90 + 90. So now I am not sure how much I have turned the bolt over 22 ft lbs. So I ended up going through the patern 2-3 more times until I felt that the head wasn't tightening any more. I estimate that the head is torqued down around 100-110 ft lbs right now. I am going to check it with a torque wrench today, and see about where it is.

Anyone have any thoughts on this subject? Think it's too tight? Too loose?

Thanks

Chris

 

The manual sez to use 22 lb-ft plus 90 deg. if using a new bolt. Seems you had it right the first time. I'd think you're risking stretched bolts/studs now. I don't see where it says to use 22 lb-ft + 90 + 90; it says to use 90 deg. steps when tightening to 22 lb-ft and then to use an additional 90 degree turn (I wonder what that ends up being torque-wise?).

I'd loosen everything and start again. Might be worthwhile considering replacing the studs...

 

ARP doesn't have a revised torque spec with the studs?

I know on replacement ARP studs for torque to yield applications a different torque spec is used.

 

I have the manual at the shop, but I recall reading 22 ft lbs + 90 + 90. Does anyone have the manual handy? It appears that ARP's torque recommendation is 89 ft lbs, I will loosen one at a time and retorque them I suppose.

Chris

 

My 00-03 helm manual says :
22ft lbs +90deg +90deg for a used head bolt.
22ft lbs +90deg +90deg +90deg for a new bolt.

 

If you have already overtorqued it, wouldn't that mean you have already stretched those studs? If so, I wouldn't undo it unless I also had replacement studs to use instead.

 

Disclaimer; I have never installed ARP studs on the S2000 motor. What follows is my knowlege of how to install new after market head studs on other motors. I have never encountered a motor with a different proceedure, but one may certainly exist.

If you have ARP studs that were provided for this application, use ARP specs. Get those first. One of the posters above gave a setting, so it seems to be a known number, but check just to be sure. From my experience, the ARP studs can be retightened at least once, but again, check with them.

Do you have a torque wrench? I can't tell from your posts. Using a torque wrench, loosen each nut and record the force required to loosen the nut. If the force exceeds the ARP torque setting, then call ARP and ask if the studs can be reused based on the force that was applied.

How did you install the studs into the block before you put the nuts on? They should be fully seated into the block before you start torquing the nuts. I recommend double nutting them and using the recommended torque setting for seating the stud before you install and tighten the nuts. Do you know what I mean by double nutting?

Of course, none of this is any good for your head gasket. They are not designed to be squeezed over and over again, especially if you exceeded the standard specs.

 

Hey guys,

The torque spec is 90 ft lbs, and I believe it was around there, however I undead one bolt at a time in a reverse pattern to the manual. I then torqued them all to 30 ft lbs, then 60, and then finally 90. The studs were fully seated. I am pretty confident that all is well at this point. I will have the motor back in towards the end of this week and I can start finishing my latest turbo build...

Thanks for the help everyone, needless to say this is one less mistake I will be making in the future.. ha

Chris

 

I didn't read it that way but I can see how I read it differently. One step (8) says to torque to 22 lb-ft followed by another numbered step (9) which states to tighten all bolts in 2 steps, 90 deg. per step. I find that description confusing but if that's what it means, I sit corrected...

 

OK, now I don't feel so bad after the stupid stunt I pulled last night torquing my studs after too many beers. But that's another story that is best left untold. Suffice it to say that I've ordered some new studs. So, CB, if I was you here is what I would do:

Loosen all the stud nuts in the head removal sequence listed in the Helms manual. Then loosen the studs and retighen them to a preload of 10 ft-lbs. Then, once again following the Helms recommended torque sequence, tighten the studs nuts to 22 ft-lbs. From here, follow the AEBS recommended torquing, turning each bolt to a 90 degree turn . You do this three times - that is three 90 degree turns after the initial 22 ft-lbs of torque. I'm not an expert on this, but I'm just rehashing what AEBS recommends. Here is a copy of their destructions: