Tramission shifting problems
SpitfireS: Are the bushings accessible from the top, that is from inside the car?
I would like to check mine as my stiff shifting problem could be a bushing deteriorating and getting in the way of things, then falling away and leaving my (imagined???) sloppy linkage feel and no more "stiffness" that I posted about.
I would like to check mine as my stiff shifting problem could be a bushing deteriorating and getting in the way of things, then falling away and leaving my (imagined???) sloppy linkage feel and no more "stiffness" that I posted about.
the gearshifts getting notchier can be due to a few reasons. If you notice your shifts getting harder, do something about it instead of just leaving it until it really gets bad and the honda dickheads agree there is a problem. Honda are dumbc*nts at the end of the day and will try to weasel out of everything.
Gear changes getting harder, notching - The s2k has a hydraulic clutch, you need to replace the MASTER or SLAVE clutch cylinder because your clutch is 'dragging' ie. not disengaging fully. The parts arent that much so just change both at the same time. (cost me $300AUD for both parts). even when your clutch is worn down to the point that it just slips non stop, it still should not be difficult to engage into the next gear. The S2k has a very tactile shifting experience. You will notice a narrow gap in your gear shift method between a clean shift and one that sort of catches either side of the gates. s2k has a short shifter with narrow gates. also keep in mind that the s2k has a 'quick gearbox' meaning that its most happy changing gears smoothly at about 5k rpm. If your stuck in city traffic and changing at 2,500-3,500 rpm and its catching the next gear dont be surprised.
If your slave/master is new/replaced recently and you know for sure taht the cylinders are ok, do a clutch fluid BLEED. This may remove air bubbles left in the system from incorrect bleeding.
gearbox oil change - when was your gearbox oil changed last? special gearbox oils like redline shockproof etc can assist with synchro issues were changing into the next gear 'catches' another gear. Another cheapish thing you can get done, and if it doesnt fix the issue at least you can remove it from your hit list.
Clutch shuddering heaps, feels 'dead' i.e high revs but car not pulling as hard as it used to - your clutch is worn out. REPLACE CLUTCH. unless you have driven your car like a granny, around 80-100 thousand kms is where most ppl need to do the clutch. Dont be a tightarse. if you need to replace it do it ASAP. The gearbox aint cheap on these suckers, changing the clutch is the cheaper solution rather than causing damage to teh gearbox from a damaged clutch/ clutch cylinders.
Gear changes getting harder, notching - The s2k has a hydraulic clutch, you need to replace the MASTER or SLAVE clutch cylinder because your clutch is 'dragging' ie. not disengaging fully. The parts arent that much so just change both at the same time. (cost me $300AUD for both parts). even when your clutch is worn down to the point that it just slips non stop, it still should not be difficult to engage into the next gear. The S2k has a very tactile shifting experience. You will notice a narrow gap in your gear shift method between a clean shift and one that sort of catches either side of the gates. s2k has a short shifter with narrow gates. also keep in mind that the s2k has a 'quick gearbox' meaning that its most happy changing gears smoothly at about 5k rpm. If your stuck in city traffic and changing at 2,500-3,500 rpm and its catching the next gear dont be surprised.
If your slave/master is new/replaced recently and you know for sure taht the cylinders are ok, do a clutch fluid BLEED. This may remove air bubbles left in the system from incorrect bleeding.
gearbox oil change - when was your gearbox oil changed last? special gearbox oils like redline shockproof etc can assist with synchro issues were changing into the next gear 'catches' another gear. Another cheapish thing you can get done, and if it doesnt fix the issue at least you can remove it from your hit list.
Clutch shuddering heaps, feels 'dead' i.e high revs but car not pulling as hard as it used to - your clutch is worn out. REPLACE CLUTCH. unless you have driven your car like a granny, around 80-100 thousand kms is where most ppl need to do the clutch. Dont be a tightarse. if you need to replace it do it ASAP. The gearbox aint cheap on these suckers, changing the clutch is the cheaper solution rather than causing damage to teh gearbox from a damaged clutch/ clutch cylinders.
Thanks for your thoughts everyone.
The update is that the car has been serviced last week (including complete oil change) and basically no change. Unfortunately the majority of my driving is short trips from a cold start, so judging by other comments it looks like I may have to live with the situation. Once the car has been running for 30 minutes it seems to clear up fairly well, so I guess I'll have to go the long way to work!!
The update is that the car has been serviced last week (including complete oil change) and basically no change. Unfortunately the majority of my driving is short trips from a cold start, so judging by other comments it looks like I may have to live with the situation. Once the car has been running for 30 minutes it seems to clear up fairly well, so I guess I'll have to go the long way to work!!
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