Transmission Install - stuck
#11
I’ll be back at it today. Doing this on my garage floor so it too quite a while just to get it on there. Hate to have to back it out. But if it’s truly the shaft binding I guess I have no other choice.
what I’m hearing is that using bolts to close the gap only works if the splines are aligned. Which is dependent upon the angle. I also read something about the steering column needing disconnecting to let the subframe droop more. Driver side is not as low as passenger. But I’m not real clear on how to do that and associated risk to the clock spring. Any other tips are appreciated. Thanks.
what I’m hearing is that using bolts to close the gap only works if the splines are aligned. Which is dependent upon the angle. I also read something about the steering column needing disconnecting to let the subframe droop more. Driver side is not as low as passenger. But I’m not real clear on how to do that and associated risk to the clock spring. Any other tips are appreciated. Thanks.
#12
As long as you disconnected the power steering connector, if you don't you can damage the cable when you lower the subframe.
#13
Dropping the subframe 3”, I never had a problem leaving the steering rack attached, bolt removed gives the spline enough play, movement. Sounds like maybe your friction disc alignment was off abit.
#14
Current update on the car after the clutch job.
The morning after completing the work, took it for a drive and all seemed normal. Today, we are experiencing some driveline vibration when under 1/2 or more throttle. More intense as revs rise and does not vibrate with coasting. Shifting is fine and feels generally normal. Given that we did not mark the driveshaft when uninstalling, was thinking maybe the driveshaft is in the wrong orientation. Looking at videos I can see that the end of the shaft with the raised metal stamp (on the outside) goes to the diff, but unclear on how to properly clock it when installing.
First: Do you all think the vibration is likely the driveshaft?
Second: Any chance the vibration could be something else (i.e loose flywheel bolts, etc?) based on symptoms.
I don't hear any grinding or feel any problem in shifting, just a strong vibration under acceleration. Note that we changed motor mounts and trans mounts as part of this process (stock). Thanks for the help S2k forum.
The morning after completing the work, took it for a drive and all seemed normal. Today, we are experiencing some driveline vibration when under 1/2 or more throttle. More intense as revs rise and does not vibrate with coasting. Shifting is fine and feels generally normal. Given that we did not mark the driveshaft when uninstalling, was thinking maybe the driveshaft is in the wrong orientation. Looking at videos I can see that the end of the shaft with the raised metal stamp (on the outside) goes to the diff, but unclear on how to properly clock it when installing.
First: Do you all think the vibration is likely the driveshaft?
Second: Any chance the vibration could be something else (i.e loose flywheel bolts, etc?) based on symptoms.
I don't hear any grinding or feel any problem in shifting, just a strong vibration under acceleration. Note that we changed motor mounts and trans mounts as part of this process (stock). Thanks for the help S2k forum.
#15
Current update on the car after the clutch job.
The morning after completing the work, took it for a drive and all seemed normal. Today, we are experiencing some driveline vibration when under 1/2 or more throttle. More intense as revs rise and does not vibrate with coasting. Shifting is fine and feels generally normal. Given that we did not mark the driveshaft when uninstalling, was thinking maybe the driveshaft is in the wrong orientation. Looking at videos I can see that the end of the shaft with the raised metal stamp (on the outside) goes to the diff, but unclear on how to properly clock it when installing.
First: Do you all think the vibration is likely the driveshaft?
Second: Any chance the vibration could be something else (i.e loose flywheel bolts, etc?) based on symptoms.
I don't hear any grinding or feel any problem in shifting, just a strong vibration under acceleration. Note that we changed motor mounts and trans mounts as part of this process (stock). Thanks for the help S2k forum.
The morning after completing the work, took it for a drive and all seemed normal. Today, we are experiencing some driveline vibration when under 1/2 or more throttle. More intense as revs rise and does not vibrate with coasting. Shifting is fine and feels generally normal. Given that we did not mark the driveshaft when uninstalling, was thinking maybe the driveshaft is in the wrong orientation. Looking at videos I can see that the end of the shaft with the raised metal stamp (on the outside) goes to the diff, but unclear on how to properly clock it when installing.
First: Do you all think the vibration is likely the driveshaft?
Second: Any chance the vibration could be something else (i.e loose flywheel bolts, etc?) based on symptoms.
I don't hear any grinding or feel any problem in shifting, just a strong vibration under acceleration. Note that we changed motor mounts and trans mounts as part of this process (stock). Thanks for the help S2k forum.
your symptoms sound like the very common CV bucket vibrations are you sure it wasn't doing that before the clutch replacement?
#16
The following 4 users liked this post by Billman250:
#18
Agree,should mate up with no influence with using bell housing bolts !!
#19
I think your problem all along was misalignment of clutch disk. Clutch alignment tool wasn't perfectly centered. I had this same issue doing mine, and had to drop trans again and redo the alignment tool.
#20