Transmission Removal Issue
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Somehow you've managed to pin the fork and render it immobile.
Push the trans back in.
Pull the fork out (it pulls out of its pivot mount very easily, two fingers is all it takes) it will come out about 2 inches. just let it dangle in the rectangular hole.
Be sure to put it back in the hole before putting the trans back in. Some have tried to get the fork in after the trans is in a it will surly crack the casing.
Push the trans back in.
Pull the fork out (it pulls out of its pivot mount very easily, two fingers is all it takes) it will come out about 2 inches. just let it dangle in the rectangular hole.
Be sure to put it back in the hole before putting the trans back in. Some have tried to get the fork in after the trans is in a it will surly crack the casing.
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broke 20 Posted on Jul 12 2008, 05:31 PM
Ok ok ok!
Could be.
It could also be the master or slave or clutch fluid with trapped air.
What you could do is this:
Put the trans back, attach it to the engine and put some bolts in.
One on top at least and one on every side and one on the bottom.
I don't think you have to raise the subframe again, maybe put the trans rear mount back.
Put the slave back without the rubber cover boot so you can see what the fork does.
Maybe you have to create some room with the clutch hardline for the flex line.
You can pull the hardline out of its clips and remove a bolt/nut (IIRC) for that.
Have someone else push the clutch pedal and watch.
Does the fork move at all?
If it doesn't move and the pedal can be pushed then you have a bad master or slave or trapped air or all of the above.
A flush & bleed is the easiest thing to do.
Garvity bleed the slave off the trans with the the rear upwards and DON'T let the reservoir run empty.
Reinstall the slave and try again.
If the pedal will not move now and the fork doesn't move either.... you have a problem
You could force it but something could get really damaged.
Something = trans clutch casing.
If the clutch is that bad how did you drive and shift?
I have already said that the fork does not move.
That is why I asked if the clutch being engaged when I had the clutch pedal to the floor would effect anything.
It could also be the master or slave or clutch fluid with trapped air.
I have tried moving the fork with the transmission fully attached to the block and with it separated, and it literally does not move at all.
Put the trans back, attach it to the engine and put some bolts in.
One on top at least and one on every side and one on the bottom.
I don't think you have to raise the subframe again, maybe put the trans rear mount back.
Put the slave back without the rubber cover boot so you can see what the fork does.
Maybe you have to create some room with the clutch hardline for the flex line.
You can pull the hardline out of its clips and remove a bolt/nut (IIRC) for that.
Have someone else push the clutch pedal and watch.
Does the fork move at all?
If it doesn't move and the pedal can be pushed then you have a bad master or slave or trapped air or all of the above.
A flush & bleed is the easiest thing to do.
Garvity bleed the slave off the trans with the the rear upwards and DON'T let the reservoir run empty.
Reinstall the slave and try again.
If the pedal will not move now and the fork doesn't move either.... you have a problem
You could force it but something could get really damaged.
Something = trans clutch casing.
If the clutch is that bad how did you drive and shift?
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