If there are any threads left at this point, that might help. I'm guessing the threads are gone though so, anything you screw in could pop out.

 

there are some remaining threads in the hole. at this point im looking into A) removing the transmission with someone who is more knowledgable and patient then I or
B) finding a shop who will remove the transmission for a decent price.

what is this going to cost me (transmission removal)? and i am concerned with the aluminum shavings/ insertion tang inside the transmission. will a simple flush cure this?

ps priceless information thanks to all

 

yes

 

Might want to do the clutch while you're at it. Probably a minimum of $400 and probably alot more. Figure $85/hr. How many hours is the job? It would take me, an amateur probably 6-8 hours.

 

A simple flush will probably not remove the insertion tang from inside the transmission. It's a short piece of stainless steel which you don't want wandering around inside the transmission. Here's what you do to save yourself a bunch of time and aggravation -
Using needle nose pliers or dikes, remove the tang before you install the Helicoil. Find a long bolt the same size and thread pitch as the internal threads of the Helicoil and a nut that fits the bolt. Thread the nut onto the bolt, then thread the Helicoil (with the tang removed) onto the end of the bolt and use the nut as a locknut to prevent the Helicoil from moving up the bolt. Then thread the Helicoil into the hole in the transmission, back off the locknut, then unscrew the bolt from the Helicoil. If you apply a bit of transmission lube to the bolt before screwing the Helicoil on, it may make the removal of the bolt from the installed Helicoil easier.
To prevent the vast majority of aluminum shavings from getting into the transmission, get some very heavy grease, wheel bearing grease for example, and apply a liberal amount to the tap before you begin tapping the hole in the transmission. You might also want to apply some grease to the drill bit and around the circumference of the filler hole as well before enlarging the filler hole. The grease will trap most of the aluminum particles, but as added insurance flush the transmission several times with Honda MTF to remove any aluminum that may be left inside.
I've never done this on a Honda/S2000 transmission, but I have done it on numerous transmissions and transfer cases (even iron-cased ones) with great success. In doing these types of repairs that patience is not only a virtue, but a money-saver as well.

 

Either try to find a replacement bolt that will have some deeper threads, try a helicoil, or have a shop tig a nut to the fill hole and use a different bolt.

 

whoa ^^ good idea. since it is the only fill hole i got some snazy rubber expanding drain plugs that have a bolt which insert into them. i just clocked 50kmiles on my baby so i figure ive got at least 5-10K more miles on the clutch. seeings how the labor is whats killing me on this whole deal i might as well wait until i can do all this buisness at once. the actually transmission housing is only $ 250 but the labor. . . my god. the problem with the helicoil job is that the transmission has to be removed to work on the upper fill hole so thats probably $500 on labor just to get the damn thing off. my grandpa told me about the axle grease trick, its saved him a couple times i suppose. lesson to be learned: patience is indeed a virtue.

 

I wanna know why a new oil pan installed with labor is 1350.00. That's a 300.00 dollar job. I've heard some lousy stuff about Family... but that takes it!

 

are there any performance shops near by that have a lift and a machine shop? or can you take whatever you messed up off of the car and take it to a machine shop? No way either would cost $1350.

 

just weld another nut on top a bigger one, we did once, shouldn't cost much.