11/27/04

Ok. New tuner. Turns out the problem is the injectors. They are 440 and high impedence, but they are too high. They are around 17 ohms. and the stock ones are around 12 ohms. The stock computer can't translate this. One moment the car runs fine and the next it dumps fuel. Impossible to tune. I had called Ulitmate Racing to verify the part number of these injectors and they said they were the right ones. So now I have to buy new injectors. (Didn't buy them from UR but a private individual) Also going to puchase the Greddy Pressure Sensor. Another week of the car running like hell.

AusS2000: I'm kicking myself....................................Hard.



11/17/04[/
Ok, So went back to the tuner yesterday. Installed the SARD 1:1 FPR. Still having issues. If the car gets tuned for street driving it leans out at high rpm's. It had almost a perfectly straight line at 12.7 until 8.5k and then when up to high 13's at redline. When you correct the high rpm range it is way too rich and bogging at low rpm.

Now I have a wierd drop in power after 8.5K. Tried resetting the ECU, Checked and regapped the plugs, and the odd part is the fuel stays steady at 12.0. Any suggestions?

Also, turns out that I never had a ESM installed but rather they used what is called a Missing Link. This sits between the Intake and the map sensor with a tube that extracts boost pressure.

Car isn't really driving better after 6 HOURS of tuning. And on the way to work it thru another CEL for what I assume is reading to rich again.

Fortunetly, my tuner did not charge me for the time yesterday.


So options:
1. Continue tuning as is. I have begun to feel sorry for my car.
2. Switch back to the stock injectors with the SARD and E-manage and see what happens.
3. Go back to the stock Comptech set up. I was running in the mid 13's to low 14's throughout the rpm range until about 8.5 when it would go down to mid 12's. Was told this was not safe enough but I never had any issues.

The other main question: Is it expecting too much for the car to run as good with the e-manage and stock ecu as it did with the stock ecu alone?

Thanks in advance

11/04/04
I had my tuning yesterday. (unfortunetly I don't have a scanner or a digital camera so I can not post the dyno sheet)

When I dynoed my car last it was in the middle of summer (hot) I dynoed out at 280hp with: Comptech SC not AC, DC sport header and Comptech exhaust.

Yesterday (not as hot) dynoed at 304 with Comptech SC not AC, DC sport header, Veilside TI exhaust, E-manage and UR 440 injectors.

Here comes the "but" in the story. Car tuned great on the dyno but when I got it on the street in bogs under low rpm. It does this both when you floor it and when you gradually increase excelleration. The car also throws CEL's for running rich. However, after 4,500 rpm she takes of. I am now running on the rich side 10.5-12 range. (before I was lean) So this brings the questions:

1. My tuner believes that the Comptech FMU is to blame because it has a straight 10:1 ratio. If I change this to a adjustable FPR would this help? It is very hard to tune with this set rate.

2. We did not remove the Comptech ESM. Is this necessary?

3. My plugs were bad so we replaced them temporarily with NGK race plugs which are an 8. They said the ideal gap for SC cars is .028. They said a gap of .032-.034 was to big and this would blow out the spark. These plugs are designed to be replaced every 3,000 miles. Does this sound right?

 

Only if you're driving the car like on track conditions all the time. If you are running it on the street and driving "normal" most of the time, this gap is too small. They will foul and maybe that's what the problem is. Do you drive it in the high revs all the time? If not, then go back to 0.034" gap. I used this gap with these plugs for several thousand miles and they never fouled (on a Vortech). It's with the OEM gap that the spark will blow out. 0.028" may be good for other blown cars, but might not work well for an S.
3000 to 5000 miles sound about right for the lifespan of NGK copper racing plugs, although with a bigger gap, they may last much longer.
Also, how was the Comptech ESM wired in? Soldered? Crimped? Comptech has recently (this past year) recommended to NOT use the crimp connectors that are supplied with their kits. It is common that crimped connections for a Comptech will display problems sometimes months later. Poor connections can mimic the symptoms of a bad ESM unit. Maybe look at the connections before throwing the ESM away.

 

Can't say I drive at high revs all the time. The car is my daily driver so I let it out on the way to and from work and on the weekends. I have to check how the ESM is wired in. Do I need it or can I use the E-manage to block the boost signal? If so how do I do this?

 

Sorry, no experience with e-manage. However, the Comptech ESM is such a simple device, they rarely go bad. I'd check the wiring and make sure they're solid first, then do the MAP whack and ECU reset.
In fact, after you get the spark plug gap sorted out, do the whack and reset AND give your kick panel where the wiring is connected up a few good pushes. This has been known to shift bad connections just enough to make the car run well for a little while. If this is the case, then the ESM is fine. It's the connections.

 

xviper,
Your running a Vortech SC kit correct? Is your FRP adjustable? Thanks for your help.

 

When I was running the emanage I did not install an ESM... infact I have no Idea want that is..... The Emanage does not need that... take it out...... just used the sc setup with no adjustable FPR or ESM and tune you emanage.... If you r using the emanage and the Adjustable fpr u will f up the maps cause the maps are in reference to a particular PSI of fuel pressure...

 

Not easily like your Comptech.

 

What FPR were you using?

 

STOCK

 

I didn't keep mine.